Hi guys. I've got a bad wiring/dead cpu error on this oled and after removing every mod component, I just get a black screen.
Reading from past messages, it appears that scratching the clk via might have broken it.
I don't have a green adapter to source clk from, so I was thinking: is there a spot where I can scratch clk from? Just like you would with dat0 in kamikaze
Reading from past messages, it appears that scratching the clk via might have broken it.
I don't have a green adapter to source clk from, so I was thinking: is there a spot where I can scratch clk from? Just like you would with dat0 in kamikaze
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There is no way you have it fix from the bottom end up if CLK via broken from cpu source side.
You either remove cpu and fix the trace or fins way to recovery the trace to via from existing trace left outside the cpu edge.
Actually the trace on the cpu side looks just fine.
It's just that, reading from older posts, I kinda understood that it's possible to break the very inner part of the via that goes to deeper layers.
Or maybe I just completely misunderstood and the problem lies elsewhere?
Black screen could be anything.
It could be the screen dead (maybe corrotion).
Or the screen connector broken.
Or the emmc line broken (cmd / dat / clk).
Or power broken.
Or something else.
Are you disconect the battery wile you soldring point or soldring point and the connector is conect by mistake???
Black secreen not reson that clk is broken you can jumper it If there clk copper line you need microscope.
Desolder cpu need very good work or will kill it easy.
Read all point before you work on console.
Black secreen not reson that clk is broken you can jumper it If there clk copper line you need microscope.
Desolder cpu need very good work or will kill it easy.
Read all point before you work on console.
Ok, to be a bit more precise, the Switch does power on but it doesn't progress further through its stages. That's why I thought it to be clk (for some reason I believed that dat0 would display a purple screen).
Every trace looks fine, but who knows? I'd like to test continuity from the back of the motherboard and I know where to find dat0, but what about clk?
Post automatically merged:
Oook guys I've noticed something quite bizarre that might actually be the culprit.
Is it possible for some oled Switch to miss this capacitor?
Edit: It actually looks like it's an inductor and not a capacitor. I've got a donor v1 Switch. Does anyone know if I can source the same component from there?
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Last edited by Vigintiduo,
It's used for the 3.3V regulator and it has a value of 1uH. Check if the inductor on V1 has the same value before replacing.
A broken Dat0 via while doing a kamikaze will result on a black screen when you power on the Switch. i can see that your Dat0 via is very well exposed (perfect circle) but what about the thin line wich goes to CPU? Are you shure you didnt broke it while drilling it ?
In the end, it was the inductor. By replacing it with a component from a donor, I saved the Switch. Dat0 was fine
Hello Guys,
Im trying to modify the payload of the picofly to make my own bin file and print my own custom icon on the switch. In the source code of Ansem-SoD the payload is located in the file payload.h
There is a way to change the icon and the text to translate it ?
Thanks
Im trying to modify the payload of the picofly to make my own bin file and print my own custom icon on the switch. In the source code of Ansem-SoD the payload is located in the file payload.h
There is a way to change the icon and the text to translate it ?
Thanks
https://rentry.org/SwitchHackingIsEasy
If you doubt about something you learn, free to ask in this thread for confirmation.
The first thing you must do is to backup everything.
After you install hekate, do backup the emmc.
Then backup the key (lockpick).
Both is the most important one.
Explore the hekate, and run every option that saying about backup / dump.
Basically backup everything.
If you're not sure whether installing the atmosfer on nand or emunand, choose emunand (the safest one).
The safest one is turn off internet, both OFW and CFW.
What you need to becareful:
1. When you turn on the internet.
You could be banned, if your hekate not properly configured to block the N IPs.
2. When you upgrade the hos.
Upgrade will burn some hardware fuse, its irreversible, eventhough the cfw could bypass that sec feature.
Last edited by abal1000x,
I configured /atmosphere/hosts/default.txt to block Nintendo servers but obviously there are several possible options, default.txt, sysmmc.txt and emummc.txt
By keeping sysMMC clean, and using atmosphere with the default.txt file, are nintendo servers also blocked on clean sysMMC ?
Thank you.
The tutorial seems to be straightforward but is kind of confusing to me.
The first step is "is my switch hackable." I should skip it, I guess.
The second is "avoid getting banned." I wanna go through emunand. When I click on the option, it just brings me to the page that just describes it. Not how to make it.
Where do I need to start?
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Correct me if I'm wrong. This is the start point? I guess.
https://rentry.org/SwitchPayloadLaunch
Erista (IPatched) / Mariko
https://rentry.org/SwitchPayloadLaunch
Erista (IPatched) / Mariko
https://rentry.org/SwitchHackingIsEasy
This is the starting point.
If you don't know anything, then this is the suited place.
I guess you need to read little bit to understand little bit about the gist.
The main work is on the number 2 menu (CFW Guides)
https://rentry.org/CFWGuides
There will be a list of tutorial, If you have minimum knowledge after read you'll understand which menu you need to choose.
For example if you want to install hekate on OLED devices using Emunand you will choose number 3:
Set up Atmosphere with EmuNAND on Mariko
https://rentry.org/MarikoEmuNAND
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