Picofly AIO Thread

[pbanj]

Its an interesting take to make a universal flex but thinking more about it seems unnecessary because all consoles except v1 is different which already comes in an unpatched variant. Also depending on the size of those slots you got those wrong for V1. The addition of the stiffener is also completely unnecessary that would drive the price up.

i based it off the leaked pcb files. the first batch was more for poc than actual use. it should fit fine as it isnt going all around the soc and needing to have holes for the other caps. comparing the actual cables is what gave me this idea in the first place. trying to keep the manufacturing cost low so it may end up with something that just sits next to the soc. the stiffener i marked off so those who want it can have it. it doesnt have to be made with it.

 

[pbanj]

still waiting for the pcbs. but the mosfets came in

 

[jkyoho]

still waiting for the pcbs. but the mosfets came in

The backside cpu point version?

 

[pbanj]

The backside cpu point version?

no. the orig ones. the order was more to check fit. if the fit is good i will fix anything needing to be fixed and then order the latest version. if that is good then the files will go to my github. i might sell some pre made ones. but it all depends on cost, if it is still gonna cost close to $10 per cable, i'll just stick with the modchips instead of switching to using rp2040 tiny

 

[jkyoho]

, if it is still gonna cost close to $10 per cable,

what quantity is that?

 

[pbanj]

what quantity is that?

when i was trying to get them made on jlcpcb, i had to set the quantity fairly high to make it less than 10 each. but oshpark makes nice cheap pcbs, and with the stencil and some solder paste it wont take long to assemble them. i think it was like $3ish for the 3 i ordered, so a buck a board. the mosfets are cheap as fuck and same goes for the resistors.

 

[pbanj]

just got an email.

they have shipped them.

 

[Ewiko]

Do you set the jumper "RGB mode" with an rp2040-zero and 2.75fw ? Or not needed anymore ?

 

[Gaara4]

Short question.
Does this error code relate to a bad D0 connection?
Thank you

 

[jkyoho]

Short question.
Does this error code relate to a bad D0 connection?
Thank you

That indicates successful glitched.
You should close the long extension cable flip before you do anything

 

[caokjiao]

Is there any 3.3v alternative (v1 Board) than the one from the picofly guide? I f*cked it up.

 

[Ewiko]

Is there any 3.3v alternative (v1 Board) than the one from the picofly guide? I f*cked it up.

Do you fucked up the pad or just jump with the other capacitor ?

 

[QuiTim]

Is there any 3.3v alternative (v1 Board) than the one from the picofly guide? I f*cked it up.

You can use the one from here

 

[pbanj]

just got an email. View attachment 438306
they have shipped them.

They came. Gonna check fit later. Realized i need to get my hands on a v1 to check the fit. Anyone here have a dead v1 mobo?

 

[caokjiao]

Do you fucked up the pad or just jump with the other capacitor ?

Actually not 100% sure, the Switch still boots up but I would not try to solder there again haha. Got a new Soldering station yesterday, so things should go smoother now

 

[jkyoho]

They came. Gonna check fit later. Realized i need to get my hands on a v1 to check the fit. Anyone here have a dead v1 mobo?

I have a v1 APU laying around, if you would sell me some

 

[caokjiao]

I have a weird problem. The whole Picofly setup worked for 2-3 months. Then, after a restart, the switch booted to OFW. I opened the switch again and saw that the RP2040 LED is not blinking at all anymore. Today I re-soldered everything but that didn’t help, same problem.

Do you think that the RP2040 is dead? Or any other Ideas?

Thanks

Btw: the switch is working and boots to OFW

 

[jkyoho]

I have a weird problem. The whole Picofly setup worked for 2-3 months. Then, after a restart, the switch booted to OFW. I opened the switch again and saw that the RP2040 LED is not blinking at all anymore. Today I re-soldered everything but that didn’t help, same problem.

Do you think that the RP2040 is dead? Or any other Ideas?

Thanks

Btw: the switch is working and boots to OFW

what firmware on the chip? try higher resistance on dat0

 

[Modificatorul]

I have a weird problem. The whole Picofly setup worked for 2-3 months. Then, after a restart, the switch booted to OFW. I opened the switch again and saw that the RP2040 LED is not blinking at all anymore. Today I re-soldered everything but that didn’t help, same problem.

Do you think that the RP2040 is dead? Or any other Ideas?

Thanks

Btw: the switch is working and boots to OFW

I only see cold solder joints, 3.3v cap looks damaged by flux, the wires are huge, use awg 36 or enamel 0.15 mm, use leaded solder, i recommend to desolder 3.3 v wire clean the flux and use the alternate point under emmc 3.3 v , if still not working replace with rp 2040 0 or similar.

 

[caokjiao]

i'm on v2.73. I have also removed data wires one by one (left side) to see any LED code, but nothing happens.

Post automatically merged: Today at 3:07 PM

I only see cold solder joints, 3.3v cap looks damaged by flux, the wires are huge, use awg 36 or enamel 0.15 mm, use leaded solder, i recommend to desolder 3.3 v wire clean the flux and use the alternate point under emmc 3.3 v , if still not working replace with rp 2040 0 or similar.

Cleaned all solder joints, removed any flux left overs.
Checked all wires for continuity - all of them are good.
Additionally checked emmc ports to wire for continuity - good.
Checked for shortages - nothing found.
Yes, 3.3v is a little bit damaged, but still works (you can see that the Power LED is on)

Huge wires? Thats actually 30 awg

I'm sure that the soldering is good enough, my suspect is the PR2040. Is there any method to check the functionality of it? Unfortunately I have already removed the USB Port, would have tried to re-flash.