Hardware My Wii U is literally missing components.

[KimmyKammy]

In order to test my electronic repair skills, I decided to fix my Wii U from my old middle school days. The problem with my Wii U was the usual 160-1400 disc drive failure. This can be fixed with some basic solder skills. Apparently the common mode filter 9 and 10 can go bad on the Wii U very easily. By replacing those components, the Wii U can work perfectly again. This image is from this thread detailing the fix. https://gbatemp.net/threads/absolute-fix-to-160-1400-error.572879/

Now here's my problem.

Notice the difference? Where are capacitors 160, 159, 158, and 157? Why is my Wii U's printed circuit board different than everyone elses? Can someone with knowledge on the topic please explain?

 

[CMDreamer]

Which PCB board revision does your Wii U have?

That's a very important thing to take into consideration when we see components "missing".

Board revisions exist because engineers try to improve the board and/or fix issues and many times that means some components are removed entirely or just moved over to another area.

 

[V10lator]

Which PCB board revision does your Wii U have?

From a WUP-30 I found this bigger picture on Discord (credits to @Lazr1026 ) :

This picture allows us to track the traces to the SoC:

So yea, for me it looks like these parts where some kind of ESD or inrush current protection Nintendo figured isn't important as nobody plugs the disc drive while it's in use anyway. So they simply removed them. I'm also no expert through.

Anyway @KimmyKammy this is from the thread you linked:

The components marked with CM9 and CM10 will only give signal on one side
This is variable though, it may only be CM9 or only CM10 or both
I repaired my two Wii U and one of them only had a problem on CM9 while the other had the problem on both
The exact model of these filters is https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-EXC-24CG900U (according to tqhoang)
The ideal fix for this issue would be to get some spare of these filters and replace them
What i did WHICH IS STILL IN TESTING AND UNDER OBSERVATION was to bridge the lines with a small length of wire

So why are you searching for C157-C160 when they say the problem is CM9 and/or CM10 and these are clearly visible on your WUP-30 board? Just go ahead and follow the post you linked by checking and replacing these if needed, like they did in the thread you linked: