When you say "Pin", are you referring to the pin numbers on the adapter board or the Datasheet for the HDMI2C1-6C1? I guess they are the same huh ?also, a bit of advice on wiring: secure the adapter board to the motherboard first, you don't want it dangling in the air with wires, that's a sure way to pull the pads off the board. Run wires (use 0.10mm enameled wire, if similar thickness insulated wire not available) to the end cap of the surrounding components where possible (which are almost all of them, except for B5) and directly to the pins of the port (for Pin 19 only), for Pin 13 run the wire to the top side of the R10 resistor (find it between two HDMI ports), and you can wire VDD_IC and VDD_5V directly to the test points if needed as well (find them under the power supply, C3 - to TP10/V_3P3STBY and C4 - to TP11/V_5P0)
1. i'm referring to the pin numbering of HDMI port (connect Pin 19 of the port to the HPD pin of the chip, Pin 13 to CEC).*edit Oh wow, you mean the HDMI port... Glad I was already doing that xD
*edit2 With TP10/V_3P3STBY and TP11/V_5P0, there are two points then a little point to the left of it. Which one did you mean ?
it's not a MOSFET, it's an ESD Protection and Signal Booster for HDMI Source IC, made by STMicroelectronics, and 740 is just a production date code (2017, week 40), the NF is a correct marking for the IC (D is for manufacturing location), but you can't buy it, because STMicroelectronics hasn't released it to the public yet (there is no datasheet for it), so at this moment you can only get it from a donor board
Did this qfn chip wired properly restore all the functionality of the xbox? Looking to do something like this on a xbox series x with a dead u21. I had it bypassed but looking to sell the console know and want full functionality.I just got home from vacation yesterday and just got it soldered on the test board now. Next onto figuring out the pinout.
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How did you come across the part number? Are you sure about it? I asked a contact at ST but he only told me it was similar to HDMI2C4-5F2.For ONE X > HDMIDP1-5F6
It seems like U21 is mostly TVS diodes, buffers, and level shifters. It should be able to work—I wanted to try it as well but I ended up selling the Xbox Series X as it was (with video but unable to display 4K). I suspected there might have been something wonky with the I2C portion.Did this qfn chip wired properly restore all the functionality of the xbox? Looking to do something like this on a xbox series x with a dead u21. I had it bypassed but looking to sell the console know and want full functionality.
from schematicsHow did you come across the part number? Are you sure about it? I asked a contact at ST but he only told me it was similar to HDMI2C4-5F2.
It seems like U21 is mostly TVS diodes, buffers, and level shifters. It should be able to work—I wanted to try it as well but I ended up selling the Xbox Series X as it was (with video but unable to display 4K). I suspected there might have been something wonky with the I2C portion.
your contribution is appreciated although a connection diagram would be very useful, thinking a design of a pcb dedicated to this fixFor those looking to use HDMI2C1-6C1 in place of original U21 chip to have full functionality/video output capabilities, use the following guide to fix your system. Not all pins of the chip will be used, since we don't really care about CEC and HEAC/Utility lines (those lines are already protected on the motherboard by TVS diodes), all we care about is boosting CLK, DATA and HPD lines from 3.3V to 5V and getting 5V OUT on Pin 18 of HDMI port.
Difficulty: Advanced
Parts required: 1. HDMI2C1-6C1 chip. 2. QFN-16 breakout board or similar board capable of handling QFN-18 chip with 0.5mm pitch. 3. 0.1uF 10V (or 16V) 0402 capacitor and two 1.8k resistors. 4. Optional: Power Switch IC (found on PS4 board for 5V OUT/Pin 18 of HDMI port).
STEP 1. Prep: A) Secure HDMI2C1-6C1 chip to the breakout board with Pin 1 (FAULT) and Pin 14 (VDD_CEC) of the chip floating and not connected. B) On the breakout board: solder one side of the 1.8k resistors to the SDA and SCL points and link the other side of the resistors to the 5V_OUT rail. C) on the motherboard: replace C14 (for 5V_OUT) with 0.1uF 10V capacitor. D) link SCL_IC (E4) to R_SCL_IC (E5) and SDA_IC (E2) to R_SDA_IC (D5).
STEP 2. (OPTIONAL) HDMI2C1-6C1 chip is enabled as soon as VDD_5V comes in (which is a standby rail and always on when AC cord is plugged in to the power supply), so even if the system is not turned on - you will be getting 5V on Pin 18 (5V_OUT) of the HDMI port, and your TV will be constantly getting power and searching/awaiting video signal when the system is off. To remedy this - use Power Switch IC and wire it according to the diagram, this way our new VDD_5V will come in only when HDD is on.
STEP 3. Wire the motherboard to the breakout board (the way the chip is placed on the breakout board, the following pinout will be used: New TP1 is CEC_IC and TP16 is VDD_IC). Connect combined SDA_IC (E2/D5) to TP3, combined SCL_IC (E4/E5) to TP2, HPD_IC (B5) to TP4, HPD (A1) to TP8, SDA (C1) to TP9, SCL (D2) to TP 10, 5V_OUT (A3) to TP13, new VDD_5V to TP14, VDD_IC to TP16, and link TP11 to GND.
This guide is for Xbox One X motherboard, but obviously can be easily applied to Xbox Series S and X systems as well.
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That's great! I didn't know there were schematics out there. Thanks.from schematics
I had a similar thought. With a little flex board you could make it fairly simple to replace.your contribution is appreciated although a connection diagram would be very useful, thinking a design of a pcb dedicated to this fix