This thread is for those that want to compare Joycon (L)'s and see if there is a trend in which are affected with issues where the left joycon desyncs or makes Link run off the edge of a cliff (general Nintendo problem/solution cases here). I got curious after reading this CNET article.
There are 4 tri-wing screws that need to be removed from the back in order to access the date-of-manufacture dials and battery product number. Tri-wing screwdrivers are pretty cheap, and the screws have been used on parts of almost every console for years (GBA, GC, Wii, WiiU, Switch, etc), so it's not bad to keep in the toolbox.
From there, there's a little adhesive on the battery tray (under the battery), but I was able to pull the battery up by going slow and gradually applying more force with a flathead screwdriver. There are 3 phillips screws to remove to see the circuit board: two under the battery (top-left and bottom-right screws, the other 2 hold the circuit board down and can be skipped) and one at the bottom left of the controller.
Maybe if enough people want to contribute, we can start a spreadsheet.
I have 2 Joycon-L's, and I'm guessing they were made in different factories by the differences that are in the dials alone. It's odd to me that there are varying battery product numbers though. I have pictures of most things if anyone wants them.
Any ideas on the bottom dials, or any other numbers that I don't currently have labeled?
CNET Joycon-L #1: has desync issue
CNET Joycon-L #2: no issue
My Joycon-L #1: has desync issue
My Joycon-L #2: no issue
There are 4 tri-wing screws that need to be removed from the back in order to access the date-of-manufacture dials and battery product number. Tri-wing screwdrivers are pretty cheap, and the screws have been used on parts of almost every console for years (GBA, GC, Wii, WiiU, Switch, etc), so it's not bad to keep in the toolbox.
From there, there's a little adhesive on the battery tray (under the battery), but I was able to pull the battery up by going slow and gradually applying more force with a flathead screwdriver. There are 3 phillips screws to remove to see the circuit board: two under the battery (top-left and bottom-right screws, the other 2 hold the circuit board down and can be skipped) and one at the bottom left of the controller.
Maybe if enough people want to contribute, we can start a spreadsheet.
I have 2 Joycon-L's, and I'm guessing they were made in different factories by the differences that are in the dials alone. It's odd to me that there are varying battery product numbers though. I have pictures of most things if anyone wants them.
Any ideas on the bottom dials, or any other numbers that I don't currently have labeled?
CNET Joycon-L #1: has desync issue
Circuit Board #s:
Top: Q-1 16402 FY
Bottom: R 007-AE0045
Shield: 6JCb
Bottom: R 007-AE0045
Shield: 6JCb
Circuit Board #s:
Top: O-4 16342 FY
Bottom: R 007-AE0045
Shield: 6JCb
Bottom: R 007-AE0045
Shield: 6JCb
Top casing date-of-manufacture dials:
Top-Left (year): 16 17 18 19 20
Top-Right (month): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Bottom-Left (day part 1): 0 1 2 3
Bottom-Right (day part 2): 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Battery Product #:Top-Right (month): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Bottom-Left (day part 1): 0 1 2 3
Bottom-Right (day part 2): 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
HAC-A-BPJMX-C0
Circuit Board #s:Top: F-3 16422 FY
Bottom: R 007-AE0045
Shield: 6JNb
Bottom: R 007-AE0045
Shield: 6JNb
Top casing date-of-manufacture dials:
Top-Left (year): 16 17 18 19 20 21
Top-Right (month): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 X Y Z
Bottom-Left (day part 1): 0 1 2 3
Bottom-Right (day part 2): 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 (between the 9 and 0)
Battery Product #:Top-Right (month): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 X Y Z
Bottom-Left (day part 1): 0 1 2 3
Bottom-Right (day part 2): 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 (between the 9 and 0)
HAC-A-BPJPA-C0
Circuit Board #s:B-4 (no 5 digit number) CC
R 007-AE0045
6JXa
R 007-AE0045
6JXa
Last edited by fiveighteen,
