So I did my first rear mosfet install on an oled and it was a bust. Used two and it was the same outcome. Has anyone else had this problem when they didn’t work on the back but worked in the normal spot?
I do back mosfet for oled all the time . v1,v2,lite i do on apu because i don't want to take more time taking all parts. 2 sides work well never have had a problem.So I did my first rear mosfet install on an oled and it was a bust. Used two and it was the same outcome. Has anyone else had this problem when they didn’t work on the back but worked in the normal spot?
So um may have figured out the problemHello I just got my new modded switch back from an online modshop, was in the middle of transferring the emunand and the battery on my switch died, let it charge for a bit and now I cant get anything to boot up, only sign I'm getting is a red light coming from the mod chip. Any help would be greatful
I think what mine was was a low reading on the dat0.I do back mosfet for oled all the time . v1,v2,lite i do on apu because i don't want to take more time taking all parts. 2 sides work well never have had a problem.
What model is it? What chip does it have? How did you solve your "not booting" problem? Let me guess, it's an OLED and it started magically working again?So um may have figured out the problem
So my new question is
How can I flash the mod chip without taking the switch apart?
Hi guys, I did my third kamikaze oled. It was working just fine but now it's not working anymore, after i left it open and unattended for a day.
It totally doesn't turn on and even the rp2040 is not turning on.
I searched for something wrong along the power rail and the usb port but everything seems fine. I also compared it to another oled.
Can it be that the dat0 trace somehow got damaged after days and that the oled doesn't even drain power if it's disconnected?
That's what I feared. I've seen videos where the M92 tests fine but is still faulty, so maybe that's the culprit. Or maybe sole other weird short on the RST line, but that one is testing fine too. I'm pretty confused lolthe rp2040 will still turn on even if dat0/clk/cmd between emmc and cpu are severed
Switch OLED, and the chip is hwfly, and the issue is I can't boot into either hekate or stock at all, even after holding the down the power button.What model is it? What chip does it have? How did you solve your "not booting" problem? Let me guess, it's an OLED and it started magically working again?
Depending on the chip version, if it's RP2040-zero or RP2040-tiny it can be flashed with picotool by booting it through Hekate, but why do you want to do it in the first place?
If you continue with problems, just sent it back to the shop, it's their responsibility if the console is not working properly.
Well, I used a Pinecil V2 with the TS-D24 Tip set at 250C. As for the Solder itself, I just use a non-brand 60/40. These work well enough when installing a picofly on the OLED.Could you please tell me the tip and solder you are using?
You're in a wrong thread, this one is dedicated to Picofly RP2040 Waveshare models, different from what you have.Switch OLED, and the chip is hwfly, and the issue is I can't boot into either hekate or stock at all, even after holding the down the power button.
the led light flashes red for a second then goes off
No, in the case of a Switch that won't be a problem.Dumb question: can you possibly damage some component on the board with a multimeter?
Well, I can image that the first time you get yourself some nice thermal compound, you don't want to hold back.Just had a console come in for repair (not booting hekate). Has anyone seen this thing before? lol
Hello.edited because im a dumbass
IN my case the problem was one of my solders on the picofly chip (the one with the resistors) that was touching the metal part that protects the CPU, because my double-sided tape that I used to stick the RP2040 (picofly) was shit. She left the place and exposed the solders causing the chip to short out...No, in the case of a Switch that won't be a problem.
Even with measuring with the diode mode, only 2V will be used and a few milliamps.
All components can handle that, even wrongly applied.
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Well, I can image that the first time you get yourself some nice thermal compound, you don't want to hold back.
Did you charge extra for cleaning up that mess?
We should open up a dedicated thread for mentioning these kind of perversions in electronic repair adventures.
There's a whole bunch of these 'repair' pictures floating around here on gbatemp.
Let me see if I can somehow browse through all the pictures on gbatemp instead of the messages.
no I didn’t but damn was it all over the place. Threw a pico in it and it’s all good.No, in the case of a Switch that won't be a problem.
Even with measuring with the diode mode, only 2V will be used and a few milliamps.
All components can handle that, even wrongly applied.
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Well, I can image that the first time you get yourself some nice thermal compound, you don't want to hold back.
Did you charge extra for cleaning up that mess?
We should open up a dedicated thread for mentioning these kind of perversions in electronic repair adventures.
There's a whole bunch of these 'repair' pictures floating around here on gbatemp.
Let me see if I can somehow browse through all the pictures on gbatemp instead of the messages.
Post your work. Are you sure your DAT0 is connected to the right spot? On the lite they’re kind of all close to other points.Hello.
My Switch Lite is also having the same symptoms. I always get the error LED "=* D0 is not connected". I fixed all the solder points including DAD0, but the error did not go away. After blinking, it will start in OFW.
Same problem. But not go ofw it go black secreen and yellow light blinking after blue. See clk. And dat0 point.no I didn’t but damn was it all over the place. Threw a pico in it and it’s all good.
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Post your work. Are you sure your DAT0 is connected to the right spot? On the lite they’re kind of all close to other points.