I lifted a solder pad on my PlayStation Classic... Help!

So my stupid ass got a little too rough with a razor blade, and not only lifted the entire solder pad of the (green) Data+ line, but peeled the trace back too. And I can't confirm any test points for me to solder to via Google or YouTube. The data lines just sort of, stop. And they don't have any solder pads where they end. (I assume they go internal where they end) Is this salvageable, or should I just junk it?

View attachment 205677

Here's the whole board, for reference:
View attachment 205679

Comments

linkinworm
your best bet might be to try solder it to that small resistor that its meant to connect to, just flood some solder in there onto the left side(relative to this photo) of that resistor and hope it works, you wont be able to connect it to somewhere else on the board because it looks like it goes through some sort of gate or something, soldering it down the trace line might just not work entirely if you try follow it else where
 
Jayro
I was afraid of that... The picture is super zoomed in, thanks to my mini mag lamp... There's no way my iron will tap off of that tiny smt resistor. I hate smt soldering. -.-
 
linkinworm
the other option would be to scrape away at the solder mask to expose what copper you can on the trace and then just glob some solder down on there above resistor, i had a similar problem when i was installing a xenochip into my cube and had to just try tap into the trace its self with solder, it worked for me.
 
Jayro
The trace peeled up all the way to the resistor, so that's probably a no-go. You can sort of tell in the pic.
 
linkinworm
ah yeah, well another option might be to measure the resistor value, remove it, place a new resistor in place ( maybe a larger one to solder easier) as one side of it is just on the ground plane, and the chip below it you should be able to solder to a bit easier anyway on that one leg? its likely at the point where reconstruction is needed off the board its self as you've borked all the current points you could possibly have fixed onto
 
Jayro
Wait... this thing supports OTG from the power port... can I tap off that to my USB hub, and forward spare data lines to the front port?
 
linkinworm
I dont think so, otherise the data would try send to somewhere random and it wouldnt get picked up on the other side by the controller. if it was just power or ground it would have been ok i think, but the data lines are pretty much needed intact
 
zfreeman
If the pad is removed, you have to scratch off the masking of the trace that led to the pad and solder to that exposed trace.
 
cracker
As long as the hub gets enough power, it should work. The hub handles the data, just like a wifi router.
 
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Kippykip
Yikes, you can either do it like this (which would be very hard with the size of it):
r8cncHB.png


Or maybe alternatively if the trace underneath passes through that black thing completely, it would be a easier to just scratch off some of the mask and solder this way. Definitely check first if it makes proper full contact with the trace above the black thing on a volt meter before you attempt this!
EFmp5lw.png
 
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cracker
Don't bypass past the resistor. The component that traces past that resistor is almost certainly needed.
 
Captain_N
you should be able to bridge that with either a wire or a small solder trail. I have done it before when some noob at work destroyed a flash Drive and removed 3 pads. scratching the trails worked and boy they were small. U will have the glue the pad down then bridge it since there is no way to solder the pad.
 
Jayro
I've decided to just replace the internal games via FTP with my favorites, and then do the stealth USB mod on port 1, with a nano usb hub also inside the controller, holding a good library of "all killer, no filler" games. So even if I connect the unmodded controller to it, I'll still have my favorite games to play.
 

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