If you find the fuses, you can actually just solder blob over them, and you'll never have this issue again. I've never heard of anyone having a bad experience afterwards, as long as it's done right.
Yes, that's correct. Same can be done with the resistors that output audio to the headphone jack, to boost the volume back to what it normally should be.As for the solder blob, is it fine if I cover the fuse with it? as long as it doesn't bridge to something else, that is? I'm half tempted to do that to both of them and be done with it.
I tried that, yet again.Just reconnect the wifi board and test it again.
If you find the fuses, you can actually just solder blob over them, and you'll never have this issue again. I've never heard of anyone having a bad experience afterwards, as long as it's done right.
just set it to "resistance" and putch each tip on the sides of the capacitor , if it pass current it gonna bipWhether they are bad or not, how would I test them? nobody has still explained how to use a multimeter to test these things. being I never used one before, I don't know what mode to set it at.
That one does absolutely nothing on any orientation I try, when I connect them to either fuse.this is the resistor set
so well the problem wheren't the screens ... what about the fuses?Okay, this is... curious.
Got another DS lite to do a shell swap to. after verifying that the screens work, I decide to take a moment to put the bottom one from that into the first unit.
Yet on there, it still does the same thing. Flash the top screen, and turned off immediately.