Hacking On flashing a DS Lite

[ConraDargo]

NOW WITH FLASHME V8! ENJOY MY GUIDE

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The first DS Lite I flashed was a piece of cake. Sure, I accidentally shut the whole thing down three times before getting to 100%, but I was never worried since I knew that I'd be able to restart the process by simply forcing FlashMe to boot using the button combination A+B+START+SELECT.

It was when I got my hands on a second Lite that I didn't feel so confident anymore... Not after having read about people who had not been able to reinitiate the process because they'd managed to blow a fuse or something... What if my first attempt was more about luck than skill?

Anyhow, seeing how there's a truly exceptional guide to flashing your regular DS @ dspassme.com but (oddly enough) none for the DS Lite, I thought I'd create this thread as a support for those visiting our forums searching for one or more answers to the question "How do I minimize or completely eliminate the risk of bricking my DS Lite while attempting to flash it?" (this was before GBAtemp decided to write their own official guide).

Firmware
Use FlashMe v8 with DS Lite support (warning - DS Link is reported to have problems with this version, you can get v7 here). There's also a "Stealth"-version available which leaves the safety screen intact (this would otherwise be removed - make your pick).

Should you ever want to uninstall FlashMe, you'll need this file.

FlashMe Official Website

SL1
What seems to be the most frequently used "tool" for shortening SL1 is a toothpick covered in aluminium foil and from what I have come to understand, it's because of how precise it is - which should minimize the risk of accidentally touching the surrounding components and thus not only shutting the console down, but even blowing a fuse (see Isolating)... But a small screwdriver should also do the job, or whatever is available to you. Just make sure to read the next step before proceeding any further...

Isolating
The biggest problem with flashing the DS Lite is the risk of blowing a fuse while trying to short SL1 because of how close other circuits are to it. To minimize (and more or less eliminate) the risk of this happening, wrap some electrical tape around the object that you're going to use for shortening SL1. Here's what a tootpick covered in foil and with some e-tape at the ends would look like (I use this myself and it works like a charm):



Battery level
Since you're not allowed to turn the system off while it's being flashed (unless you want to risk damaging the unit) you should make sure that the battery is fully charged before proceeding, or even better - plug in the AC-adapter and keep it that way throughout the installation process. Not only will this eliminate the risk of completely draining your battery, but should the battery ever fall out during the process - the unit will keep staying alive despite this.

System shutdown
Should the system ever shut down before reaching 100%, try to stay calm and gently pull out the PassMe2 or whatever device it is that you're using (SuperPass2, MagicKey2, etc). Now press and hold A+B+START+SELECT and turn your DS Lite on. It should boot directly from the GBA-slot now and allow you to reinitiate the install process. If it doesn't... Sorry mate, but you probably just bricked your console :/ Don't take my word for it though and don't give up hope just yet! Create a topic here at GBAtemp and ask for help and you just might be able to save it.


So, there you have the basics - the "Do's and do not's'". Now let's go more in-depth by bringing you a step-by-step guide on how to flash the Lite without ending up with a very expensive paper-weight (just don't come running to me with your foul language should something go wrong despite you following everything that's been written down here!).

1. Tools to use

Apart from a screwdriver for loosing the battery cover, you’ll also need these vital tools (from left to right): a flash cart that fits the GBA-slot, a device capable of redirecting the DS to a GBA flash cart, and something to short SL1.

I myself am currently using a SuperCard, PassCard 3 (though I was using a PassMe2 when this guide was written and that picture taken), and toothpick covered in foil with its tips isolated using electrical tape. The SuperCard has a SanDisk SD-card in it, onto which I have loaded FlashMe v7 (a "raw" .nds file - it has not been converted using the SC software) and the proper file needed for my PassMe2 (in this case it’s a GBA-file for the US-Demo of Metroid Prime Hunters: First Hunt).

Please note that you are not able to flash a DS Lite with anything but the second and third "generation" devices - that is PassMe2 and 3, SuperPass2 and 3, MagicKey2 and 3 etc. Do not purchase a PassMe1 or SuperPass1 etc as they will not work with anything but older DS-consoles (not even the coloured ones).


2. Unscrew cover


Turn your DS Lite around and unscrew the cover protecting the battery.


3. Locate SL1


Look into the two square-shaped holes that are close to each other and you’ll see what looks like two half-moons facing each other in one of them (it’s in the left hole on the picture provided). That’s what you’re looking for - that’s the write-enable contacts (SL1) that needs to be shortened, but not just yet...


4. Insert cart


First, insert your chosen flash cart and power up the unit. Unless the cart starts automatically you’ll end up at the console’s menu and should therefore tap "Start GBA game".


5. Write SRAM



Now, unless you're using a PassKey2 for example (or newer version) - you'll need to write the appropriate SRAM to the card or the install-file won't boot. But do not power down the unit just yet! Proceed to the next step first, or step 7 if you do not need to write SRAM (I myself have retired the old PassMe2 for a more convenient PassCard 3 *lazy boy*).


6. Insert device for redirecting


Insert your chosen device all the way in and then turn off the power - only to power the unit back on! Do this quickly or the SRAM written will be lost (which means go back to Step 4).


7. Execute FlashMe




Your Lite should now be able to execute the install-file on your flash cart. If it cannot then power the unit off, go back to Step 4 and write the SRAM to the cart again (don’t forget to remove your device first!).

After executing the file you’ll either go straight to the installer or see a warning message, depending on whether you use FlashMe v7 or 8. Either just ignore the warning or cancel the process - the choice is yours and I really can’t tell you whether it’s harmless to go on or not (probably harmless as long as you don't uninstall FlashMe). Assuming you do proceed (or didn’t even get to see the warning in the first place) - just follow the installer's directions by pressing X B X B to continue.


8. Short SL1



Now is the time to short SL1, because you’ll want to reach 100% before turning off the Lite. Don’t be scared should the process ever come to a stop and you see the % blinking - that’s just a way of telling you that you need to re-short SL1 (i.e reposition the tool that you're using). Fiddle around with this step until you get to 100%, then shut down the unit and remove all the tools you’ve been using as well as screw back the battery cover.

Note: In case you're using "my" toothpick and are confused about how you should insert it, I myself do it diagonally - so that it touches both corners of the hole (i.e. it should either look like this [/] or this [\]). Now in my case, because the toothpick became rather thick after dressing it up in foil and tape, it fits perfectly - like a glove, meaning that there's very little risk of accidentally dropping the toothpick (even if I let go of it) or getting it out of position. Should your toothpick feel too small (or big) - insert it as you like or resize it.


9. Play


Pop in a flash cart that is loaded with games, applications or whatever and start having fun!


Thank you for reading and a special thank you goes out to everyone who has/will somehow contribute(d) to this thread (whether you're a member of this forum or not) by providing me with information, tips, links, and of course - sweet comments and flattery

Good luck to all you people out there who are going to flash your DS Lite after reading this documentation!

 

[AshuraZro]

You should cover the left side. But I would think it is easier to wrap your tool (love saying that because I am juvenille) with some electrical tape so only the tip is showing. That way you can only make contact with the SL1 contact.

And electrical tape is black and an insulator. You may wonder why I mention such an obvious thing. A couple weeks ago when I said to someone to try electrical tape, they thought I meant ALUMINUM FOIL!

 

[ConraDargo]

And electrical tape is black and an insulator. You may wonder why I mention such an obvious thing. A couple weeks ago when I said to someone to try electrical tape, they thought I meant ALUMINUM FOIL!

Lol, no need to worry

Thanks for the tip!

 

[ConraDargo]

Wow, that went surprisingly well! This second foil-covered toothpick did the job much better than the first one I created, it even beat the nail I've been using for flashing regular DS' for several months now! The “electrical tape”-trick really made a difference

Thanks again AshuraZero, now I'm going to update the first post with information and pictures.

 

[REL1203]

i am a total n00b when it comes to actually flashing them, so i am looking at this guide for if i ever decide to flash.. Where do you located SL1 and what exactly is it? This isnt so much a step by step one that people really need. Like you dont mention where to get the new firmware, what to put it on, ect...

 

[ConraDargo]

Yeah I suppose I could turn it more into a more detailed step-to-step guide. Right now it's more of a complement to the guide @ dspassme.com for regular DS consoles.

 

[AshuraZro]

I was wrong BTW. After seeing actual pictures of the circuit board I noticed that the VR1 point is on the RIGHT side of the SL1. But shouldnt matter if you just wrap around the entire tool. (snicker)

 

[bug]

Thanks for the guide. Your pictures look a little strange though. It looks like you wrapped the whole toothpick in aluminium foil, and then wrapped the ends in electrical tape? I thought you should wrap the whole thing in electrical tape and only leave the very tip of one end open, to do the shorting.

Am I just not seeing your pictures properly?

 

[ConraDargo]

I was wrong BTW. After seeing actual pictures of the circuit board I noticed that the VR1 point is on the RIGHT side of the SL1. But shouldnt matter if you just wrap around the entire tool. (snicker)
*giggle* Well then, I'm glad I decided on the electrical tape idea instead of just trying to stick some paper into the whole

Thanks for the guide. Your pictures look a little strange though. It looks like you wrapped the whole toothpick in aluminium foil, and then wrapped the ends in electrical tape? I thought you should wrap the whole thing in electrical tape and only leave the very tip of one end open, to do the shorting.

Am I just not seeing your pictures properly?

I only wrapped up the end/tip because I couldn't see why I would have to cover the whole thing up. The tip is all you use after all - it's what touches the circuit board.

 

[magx]

so the end is covered in electrical tape.......and just the very very tips, like the bottom of the toothpick has the foil exposed? so the sides are taped and only the very literal tip has exposed foil?

thanks for the guide, and sorry for the likely stupid question

 

[ZildjianKX]

I would really like a high resolution pic of the SL1 for the DS Lite and and what explicitely to short and what to avoid. Even a photoshop pic would work.

So far nice guide.

 

[lego]

so the end is covered in electrical tape.......and just the very very tips, like the bottom of the toothpick has the foil exposed? so the sides are taped and only the very literal tip has exposed foil?

thanks for the guide, and sorry for the likely stupid question

Just the end is the exposed. What works for me is snapping the toothpick in two and using the flat end covered in foil to short the contacts in SL1. Using the sharp end is a bit too much of a hassle. Oddly enough trying to use other tools such as precision screwdrivers doesn't work nearly as well as a simple toothpick. To be perfectly safe, just take apart the DS/Lite and create a quick solder bridge across SL1, then after it is flashed, remove the solder. It is more of a hassle, and you have to have rudimentary solder skills, but it saves you from poking about an electronic circuit with a pointy stick and no way to see exactly what you're doing. BTW U.S. Lites flash just fine.

Image of DS Lite motherboard with SL1 circled

 

[nintendofreak]

thanks

wasnt gonna get a ds lite because of all the problems that people were having, but just stick with my ds... but seeing now that u can recover from the instalation i might consider getting one

 

[shtonkalot]

I would really like a high resolution pic of the SL1 for the DS Lite and and what explicitely to short and what to avoid. Even a photoshop pic would work.

So far nice guide.

Here you go:
SL1

watchout
Hope the pics are OK.

The bad area to the left of the SL1 is under the plastic. I have a hard time seeing how you could short out something under there but better safe then sorry.
As per the start of this thread MAKE SURE YOU INSULATE THE SHORTING TOOL!

 

[yuwing]

Let me know if this is right.

The tooth pick is broken in half, and the flat half is covered in aluminum foil first, then cover the sides with electrical type to insolate the sides. so only the very tip of the tooth pick has teh aluminum foil.


To flash the SL1, u need to touch the tip of the tooth pick on both half circles (first diagram with red circle depicting the toothpick end). (can't do it only on 1 semi circle or the other itself [2nd and third diagram with red circle])?

 

[shtonkalot]

Let me know if this is right.

The tooth pick is broken in half, and the flat half is covered in aluminum foil first, then cover the sides with electrical type to insolate the sides. so only the very tip of the tooth pick has teh aluminum foil.


To flash the SL1, u need to touch the tip of the tooth pick on both half circles (first diagram with red circle depicting the toothpick end). (can't do it only on 1 semi circle or the other itself [2nd and third diagram with red circle])?

That's it.

 

[ZildjianKX]

I would really like a high resolution pic of the SL1 for the DS Lite and and what explicitely to short and what to avoid. Even a photoshop pic would work.

So far nice guide.


Here you go:
SL1

watchout
Hope the pics are OK.

The bad area to the left of the SL1 is under the plastic. I have a hard time seeing how you could short out something under there but better safe then sorry.

You rock man, that was exactly what I was looking for. Doesn't look that hard to short.

You just have to short the two "semi-circles" together, right?

 

[AshuraZro]

One problem. Some of that "bad" area actually can be shorted from the "Good" area.

 

[shtonkalot]

One problem. Some of that "bad" area actually can be shorted from the "Good" area.


Not if your shorting tool is insulated and you stick inside the good area.

If you believe that is wrong please point out how and I'll see about amending the pic.

You rock man, that was exactly what I was looking for. Doesn't look that hard to short.

You just have to short the two "semi-circles" together, right?

And you Sir, Roll!

Yep connect the two semi-circles and nothing else and you will be fine.

 

[AshuraZro]

There's nothing wrong with the picture but it should be mentioned with it to make sure people understand this fact and do not brick their systems. And once again I will say it. Don't be a fool, wrap your tool.