Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[rogras]

v2.74 + 300 mhz precision rp2040 may be not stable at 300mhz

Dear Rehius

The v2.74 was stable with old OLED NAND from manufacturer SEC but recent OLED revisions like from Switch Zelda Edition it is really unstable. So the issue is again like from CORE toshiba nand timings.

 

[abal1000x]

Dear Rehius

The v2.74 was stable with old OLED NAND from manufacturer SEC but never OLED revisions like from Switch Zelda Edition it is really unstable. So the issue is again like from CORE toshiba nand timings.

Is it solve by downgroading to 2.73? or solve by add resistor on cmd line in the picofly?

 

[Switxh]

Dear Rehius

The v2.74 was stable with old OLED NAND from manufacturer SEC but never OLED revisions like from Switch Zelda Edition it is really unstable. So the issue is again like from CORE toshiba nand timings.

I have a Zelda OLED with Samsung EMMC on 2.74 firmware and it's the fastest and most consistent glitching unit I've got. I don't think the special edition has anything to do with what EMMC you have.

 

[rogras]

I have a Zelda OLED with Samsung EMMC on 2.74 firmware and it's the fastest and most consistent glitching unit I've got. I don't think the special edition has anything to do with what EMMC you have.

ok - SEC is Samsung but what about with SKhynix ?

 

[Switxh]

ok - SEC is Samsung but what about with SKhynix ?

The SK Hynix OLED I have is not Zelda OLED but it's not consistent at glitching. Sometimes it will glitch in 1-2s and sometimes it will take 20s+ but it has never failed to glitch. I don't really know what the problem is. I thought it was a mosfet / flex cable problem but I have tried multiple configurations on the CPU now and nothing changed the results.

I see people now talking about adding another resistor to CMD line and I'm wondering if that might make a difference for my SK Hynix? I'm kind of reluctant to try though because I've opened it up so many times now thinking I have a remedy for the inconsistent glitches but it would be the same result every time lol

 

[R-Couto]

good afternoon my switch these days showed a blue led and then a white and orange led and the OFFICIAL SITEMA starts

 

[Takezo-San]

yea im traing to find it

thanks , lets pray . i dont understand everything was working just fine , i reboot the console and no hekake just ofw, i tried a few more times on and off , alwys ofw and then purpple screen

Post automatically merged: Jun 22, 2023

here some pics

How long was it working for until you encountered this problem (time frame)?

Post automatically merged: Jun 23, 2023

the purple happends when after a 10 power off and on train to get to hekake , but only ofw , the issue go away just by putting the battery of and on . iam isntalling BUNCH OF THINGS TO THE EMCC 40mbs no issues , just to see if i can see a issue

Post automatically merged: Jun 23, 2023

any magnetic fusse out there that i can buy and sother to the reset on the pico ?

So how did you fix the purple screen exactly? Sorry, just hard to follow what you did exactly.

Post automatically merged: Jun 23, 2023

guys, we've been missing for a while.
I had doubts about the stability of fw 2.74, that's why I was installing 2.67.
Now I see that the problem has been recognized, and 2.73 is recommended.
Can I safely update all the consoles with which I installed with 2.67?
Or do I stay like this?

If your console is fine with 2 67, why do you want to upgrade it if everything works and glitches fine? If it's not broken, don't fix it.

Post automatically merged: Jun 23, 2023

guys, we've been missing for a while.
I had doubts about the stability of fw 2.74, that's why I was installing 2.67.
Now I see that the problem has been recognized, and 2.73 is recommended.
Can I safely update all the consoles with which I installed with 2.67?
Or do I stay like this?

If your console is fine with 2 67, why do you want to upgrade it if everything works and glitches fine? If it's not broken, don't fix it.

Post automatically merged: Jun 23, 2023

good afternoon my switch these days showed a blue led and then a white and orange led and the OFFICIAL SITEMA starts

These days not much can be done with just words to fix a problem such as yours. Do you have something to show us fine folks of this community?

 

[Switxh]

The SK Hynix OLED I have is not Zelda OLED but it's not consistent at glitching. Sometimes it will glitch in 1-2s and sometimes it will take 20s+ but it has never failed to glitch. I don't really know what the problem is. I thought it was a mosfet / flex cable problem but I have tried multiple configurations on the CPU now and nothing changed the results.

I see people now talking about adding another resistor to CMD line and I'm wondering if that might make a difference for my SK Hynix? I'm kind of reluctant to try though because I've opened it up so many times now thinking I have a remedy for the inconsistent glitches but it would be the same result every time lol

I added another 47ohm resistor to the CMD line and it made glitch times significantly worse for me on SK hynix EMMC. None of them failed but I retrained the chip and did 20+ test boots and some of them took almost 60 seconds to glitch. So taking the resistor off now lol.

 

[abal1000x]

I added another 47ohm resistor to the CMD line and it made glitch times significantly worse for me on SK hynix EMMC. None of them failed but I retrained the chip and did 20+ test boots and some of them took almost 60 seconds to glitch. So taking the resistor off now lol.

Thank you for the share.
It seems the resistor really did have some correlation.

 

[Switxh]

Thank you for the share.
It seems the resistor really did have some correlation.

Yeah it definitely seems related as it was significantly slower than before by a big margin. Cheers!

 

[SonnyMarrow]

Just installed a picofly in a Switch V1, but I'm having an eMMC issue.

Everything works - I can boot into stock FW, CFW, etc. But when I set up the emuMMC in hekate, I got a slow mode warning. The eMMC initialized but it reports 2 read/write fails. It's Samsung if that matters. Could it be the RST wire?

 

[abal1000x]

Just installed a picofly in a Switch V1, but I'm having an eMMC issue.

Everything works - I can boot into stock FW, CFW, etc. But when I set up the emuMMC in hekate, I got a slow mode warning. The eMMC initialized but it reports 2 read/write fails. It's Samsung if that matters. Could it be the RST wire?

Try to add the resistance on CMD from 47ohms to around 100ohms

 

[jkyoho]

Just installed a picofly in a Switch V1, but I'm having an eMMC issue.

Everything works - I can boot into stock FW, CFW, etc. But when I set up the emuMMC in hekate, I got a slow mode warning. The eMMC initialized but it reports 2 read/write fails. It's Samsung if that matters. Could it be the RST wire?

What brand emmc on you device?

 

[SonnyMarrow]

What brand emmc on you device?

It says Samsung in the Console Info menu in Hekate. Does having it run in slow mode affect anything if it's all running off the SD card anyway?

 

[QuiTim]

It says Samsung in the Console Info menu in Hekate. Does having it run in slow mode affect anything if it's all running off the SD card anyway?

If you read the Pico Fly Guide you have all the info there. I had the same issue on V1 upatched. I added one more 47ohm resistor to dat0 and it was fixed.

 

[frozenboy]

Hi everyone, I just got *== (short, long long) with sw lite at 2.74, I got no idea what does that mean, I've check the code table and it seem there is no such things as *==. Anyone know about this? Thank in advance.
P/S: it seem I have mess up with dat0 and cmd.
But it should appear in the table if this could happen. So weird

 

[Blakejansen]

This board works fine. The dat0 adapters provided with this board are horrible. The dat0 adapters are the cause of the damaged emmcs, not the board itself. I have bought from these.

Edit: Look at these adapters.
Number 1 and 2 came from a batch from a store that later shipped bad adapters. These adapter are the real deal.
Number 3 came with intinct-nx chip. This will also work fine.
Number 4 came with the board you mention. Now this is how a horrible adapter looks like. Never use something like that.

I have mostly done oled consoles. Maybe not much old switch consoles in my place. With such adapters i never had a dead console. After many installations. I also havent got any returns yet due to adapter installation.

Does Number 3 always come with instinct-nx? Want to make sure my adapter is the right one.

 

[lightninjay]

Hi everyone, I just got *== (short, long long) with sw lite at 2.74, I got no idea what does that mean, I've check the code table and it seem there is no such things as *==. Anyone know about this? Thank in advance.
P/S: it seem I have mess up with dat0 and cmd.
But it should appear in the table if this could happen. So weird

*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)

This is directly from Rehius' firmware post, which is also copy-pasted into the latest Definitive guide.

 

[frozenboy]

This is directly from Rehius' firmware post, which is also copy-pasted into the latest Definitive guide.

Thanks, I am used 6.1 which is missing this one, I also check in a github page, but it seem it is just cloned version of rehius which also outdated

 

[QuiTim]

Today I tried to do a reball using solder paste.
I made a small "reballing jig" based on @Dee87 idea (thank you).
Used a small cutting board to cut out a frame for emmc and then drilled 4 small holes for magnets (fixed in place with glue).
After the stencil is positioned on top of emmc i place 4 more magnets on top of the ones fixed onboard and the stencil is secured.
My first attempt failed because I did 2 mistakes: 1st I did not "dry out" the solder paste (you have to do this if your paste has too much flux), and 2nd i did not apply pressure on stencil while applying heat. This resulted in quite a mess that I had to clean up and redo everything.
The second attempt was a success.
*this was done as an exercise using a old emmc pulled from a phone. No Switch was harmed in the making of this video