Hacking Feedback Hardware Unable to boot OFW with Picofly

[Amalox]

Pretty experienced installer here, I've had this issue with Hwfly OLEDs as well, but I can't seem to figure out exactly why it happens:

So I just installed a Picofly (RP2040-Zero) on a patched v1. Glitches fine and boots into Hekate. For some reason it does not want to boot OFW from the eMMC though. I read in the FAQ that this can happen if you don't have the 47 Ohm resistors due to line interference, but I do have these resistors installed as well. Could it be the fact that I'm using copper enameled 0.1mm wire? If so, is the best solution to just get different wire, and if yes then what wire should I use?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: It shows the Nintendo logo, then blackscreens

 

[nashdz]

Pretty experienced installer here, I've had this issue with Hwfly OLEDs as well, but I can't seem to figure out exactly why it happens:

So I just installed a Picofly (RP2040-Zero) on a patched v1. Glitches fine and boots into Hekate. For some reason it does not want to boot OFW from the eMMC though. I read in the FAQ that this can happen if you don't have the 47 Ohm resistors due to line interference, but I do have these resistors installed as well. Could it be the fact that I'm using copper enameled 0.1mm wire? If so, is the best solution to just get different wire, and if yes then what wire should I use?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: It shows the Nintendo logo, then blackscreens

i am having exactly the same problem ,first boot was successful ,than boot to hekate easy but when try to lunch emummc it shows black screen , kept the switch off for an hour or so ,than tried again and it did show atmosphere logo than black screen
i also had success booting to ofw by holding + and - buttons and power button once , than nothing other than nintendo logo and black screen
could be boot0 get corrupted for whatever reason ,but will keep trying till getting a clear fix for this issue

update: my switch booted normaly after a couple of tries ,left it for 15 minutes or so and to my surprise it is working normaly now
could that have to do with the chip learning and getting faster boot everytime being used
i was about to add 2 more resistors to dot0 and cmd ,i guess not anymore

 

[aparitxi]

Hi all, i had a rp tiny installed working fine and one day the switch stopped working. After opening it and searching for the problem i found a ripped clk pad (see the picture) now i dont know what is the best option to repair it, i tried to apply flux and solder tin to make a bridge but did not work.
Maybe scratch the tracks and solder replace pads i saw in aliexpress (see the photo). Now i removed the rp and all the wires but the switch still not working, i hope it will work after repairing the clk track.
What should i do in your opinion? Thank you

 

[TheBad]

I have seen this problem with one of Lite consoles that I modded. I have replaced the Mosfet and It worked flawlessly.

Post automatically merged: Jul 12, 2023

Hi all, i had a rp tiny installed working fine and one day the switch stopped working. After opening it and searching for the problem i found a ripped clk pad (see the picture) now i dont know what is the best option to repair it, i tried to apply flux and solder tin to make a bridge but did not work.
Maybe scratch the tracks and solder replace pads i saw in aliexpress (see the photo). Now i removed the rp and all the wires but the switch still not working, i hope it will work after repairing the clk track.
What should i do in your opinion? Thank you

Don't need replacement pads. Carefully scratch both end and bridge it with 0.1 or 0.2mm enameled wire.

 

[kylegp]

I had this problem and I also installed with 0.1mm enameled wire.

As per the Picofly guide, I added an additional 47ohm resistor to the CMD and DAT0 lines.

This got it booting OFW *sometimes* but its not consistent. A lot of times it will still hang on the black screen.

Did anyone get any further with this?

 

[nashdz]

I had this problem and I also installed with 0.1mm enameled wire.

As per the Picofly guide, I added an additional 47ohm resistor to the CMD and DAT0 lines.

This got it booting OFW *sometimes* but its not consistent. A lot of times it will still hang on the black screen.

Did anyone get any further with this?

my issue was resolved after i reseated the dat0 ribbon under the emmc chip, even the reading was ok but find out it wasn't properly aligned with the proper solder ball under it, moved it a bit to the left and kept trying till had a stable boot.
the dat0 ribbond coming from china even do have white lane to help get it aligned with the proper point, but unfortunately some are wrong.
i switched over to the black colored ribbons which seems to sit better than the gold ones.

 

[Crung]

Pretty experienced installer here, I've had this issue with Hwfly OLEDs as well, but I can't seem to figure out exactly why it happens:

So I just installed a Picofly (RP2040-Zero) on a patched v1. Glitches fine and boots into Hekate. For some reason it does not want to boot OFW from the eMMC though. I read in the FAQ that this can happen if you don't have the 47 Ohm resistors due to line interference, but I do have these resistors installed as well. Could it be the fact that I'm using copper enameled 0.1mm wire? If so, is the best solution to just get different wire, and if yes then what wire should I use?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: It shows the Nintendo logo, then blackscreens

have you fixed it?

 

[CMDreamer]

Hi all, i had a rp tiny installed working fine and one day the switch stopped working. After opening it and searching for the problem i found a ripped clk pad (see the picture) now i dont know what is the best option to repair it, i tried to apply flux and solder tin to make a bridge but did not work.
Maybe scratch the tracks and solder replace pads i saw in aliexpress (see the photo). Now i removed the rp and all the wires but the switch still not working, i hope it will work after repairing the clk track.
What should i do in your opinion? Thank you

You need to connect the via using a magnet wire to make a bridge. Keep in mind using flux (unavoidable), the correct soldering tip and temp or you'll keep damaging even further the board.