The TLDR answer is you pulled too much current from a weak battery.let's say i don't care about battery life and my temps are below 60c, why does the switch shut off as if the battery went dead when i set gpu to above 768 while handheld and unplugged, despite it actually having a lot more juice left 50% or sometimes more, it's like once the battery is below a certain threshold the device refuses to continue using the high clocks that i manually set in an uncapped oc tool
any insight ? is there a way to make the device not do this even if the battery is going to only last 1 ~ 1.5 hours ?
you could be right or it could be as simple as the fact he found out why the sysclk limits are there in the first place with it just using more power than the battery can handle unplugged. also just an fyi you can check the battery health in hekate.The TLDR answer is you pulled too much current from a weak battery.
Lots of dirty battery details.
This is probably more the fault of the ubiquitous "battery gauge" than anything. The idea that a battery has a nice % capacity is going to need to go away in the future. Battery gauges use the voltage of the battery to estimate it's %. Lithium Polymer batteries have a fully charged voltage of 4.2 and a discharged voltage of 3.0 - 3.2 volts. Discharging below that will significantly reduce the useful life of the battery. The discharge curve is also not a nice linear one. It's actually pretty flat until it gets to ~3.6 volts. This is a good thing for our devices but a bad thing for a display %. Full charge voltage and almost dead the voltage changes very little, this small change is measured and turned into the % that you see in nearly all battery powered devices. Here's the thing though, that voltage isn't a constant, it changes with the current draw being placed on the battery. To further add complexity, lithium polymer batteries lose capacity with each battery "cycle" (discharge to recharge). This is typically between 300 - 500 cycles. A cycle is considered going from 4.2 - ~3 volts and back to 4.2 again (100% -> 0% -> 100%)
Ok so that's a lot of info and there's still more but here's what's likely happening in your case. Your battery has lost capacity. The battery voltage is still at the 50% level (We'll say 3.7 volts for the sake of argument) but when you crank up the clocks and increase the current draw, it pulls the battery all the way down to the shutdown voltage (we'll call this 3.2 volts) and your Switch powers off.
I actually had a phone do the same thing after it was three years old. If the battery was ~50% or less and I tried to use the camera it would reboot.
IMO manufacturers should start providing more detailed battery measurements in mAh and volts rather than a simple % so that people had a better idea of what was happening.
so i take it this is just a hardware limitation of the battery itself and nothing i can really do to stop this from happening even if i'm okay with 1 ~ 1.5 hours of battery life ?The TLDR answer is you pulled too much current from a weak battery.
Lots of dirty battery details.
This is probably more the fault of the ubiquitous "battery gauge" than anything. The idea that a battery has a nice % capacity is going to need to go away in the future. Battery gauges use the voltage of the battery to estimate it's %. Lithium Polymer batteries have a fully charged voltage of 4.2 and a discharged voltage of 3.0 - 3.2 volts. Discharging below that will significantly reduce the useful life of the battery. The discharge curve is also not a nice linear one. It's actually pretty flat until it gets to ~3.6 volts. This is a good thing for our devices but a bad thing for a display %. Full charge voltage and almost dead the voltage changes very little, this small change is measured and turned into the % that you see in nearly all battery powered devices. Here's the thing though, that voltage isn't a constant, it changes with the current draw being placed on the battery. To further add complexity, lithium polymer batteries lose capacity with each battery "cycle" (discharge to recharge). This is typically between 300 - 500 cycles. A cycle is considered going from 4.2 - ~3 volts and back to 4.2 again (100% -> 0% -> 100%)
Ok so that's a lot of info and there's still more but here's what's likely happening in your case. Your battery has lost capacity. The battery voltage is still at the 50% level (We'll say 3.7 volts for the sake of argument) but when you crank up the clocks and increase the current draw, it pulls the battery all the way down to the shutdown voltage (we'll call this 3.2 volts) and your Switch powers off.
I actually had a phone do the same thing after it was three years old. If the battery was ~50% or less and I tried to use the camera it would reboot.
IMO manufacturers should start providing more detailed battery measurements in mAh and volts rather than a simple % so that people had a better idea of what was happening.
Seems focused on Mariko devices.
i'm using a version of this that lifts the caps in handheld mode (got it from 4pda) in addition to supporting memory overclocking, but just when the battery is around 50% if i'm using high clocks the device shuts off, seems like there is no solution for this....Seems focused on Mariko devices.
Is both still being updated, or is sys-clk (not OC suite) outdated?
The first one. It's the battery physically wearing out, not a software limit to prevent you from getting more runtime. Modifying the shut off voltage wouldn't really be beneficial as after the battery drops off that curve it won't support a load anymore. My guess is that the battery voltage corresponds to a new battery in the middle of the discharge curve. In reality your battery has likely gone through plenty of charge cycles and while the voltage would normally be in the middle of the curve it is now close to the lower cliff. This is the dirty little secret of all our devices with "non user servicable" batteries. I wish OEMs would be forced to sell OEM batteries at a reasonable price as every device with a battery has a countdown timer from the day you start using it.so i take it this is just a hardware limitation of the battery itself and nothing i can really do to stop this from happening even if i'm okay with 1 ~ 1.5 hours of battery life ?
is there a way to modify this "shut off voltage" on switch so that when the current increases and the voltage gets pulled down the switch doesn't shut off ?
Possibly, but having seen other devices with old batteries exhibit the same behavior I'll stick with my hypothesisyou could be right or it could be as simple as the fact he found out why the sysclk limits are there in the first place with it just using more power than the battery can handle unplugged. also just an fyi you can check the battery health in hekate.
it works on both you just only get ram overclock on eristaSeems focused on Mariko devices.
Is both still being updated, or is sys-clk (not OC suite) outdated?
the solution is to learn why the limit is even there in the first place. its not just limited for no reason and the fact you are using coolers crap makes this even worsei'm using a version of this that lifts the caps in handheld mode (got it from 4pda) in addition to supporting memory overclocking, but just when the battery is around 50% if i'm using high clocks the device shuts off, seems like there is no solution for this....
dying batteries do work like that yes but so does a battery when you just use too much power even if its a healthy battery which is one of the reason the sysclk limits existPossibly, but having seen other devices with old batteries exhibit the same behavior I'll stick with my hypothesis
Currently, my "crap" downloaded over a million times, and so far no one has been found whose console has been irreversibly damaged. Stop talking nonsense, continuing to lie to people. People are not stupid, for each of them your lie sooner or later becomes clear.the solution is to learn why the limit is even there in the first place. its not just limited for no reason and the fact you are using coolers crap makes this even worse
Bulls**t. 4IFIR with using optimized modes (undervolted), draws less battery power then vanila SysCLK, even when we compairing 1.5GHz (4IFIR) vs 0.9GHz (SysCLK), lol.when you just use too much power
Here's my sys-clk config.ini entry for Pokemon Violet and Scarlet overclocking:Hello, does someone have suggestion for oc values to use for pokemon violet while docked?
Because the battery isn't made for you to be drawing that much power, and the voltage drops too low for it to sustain itself.let's say i don't care about battery life and my temps are below 60c, why does the switch shut off as if the battery went dead when i set gpu to above 768 while handheld and unplugged, despite it actually having a lot more juice left 50% or sometimes more, it's like once the battery is below a certain threshold the device refuses to continue using the high clocks that i manually set in an uncapped oc tool
any insight ? is there a way to make the device not do this even if the battery is going to only last 1 ~ 1.5 hours ?
Id genuinely love to see actual numbers instead of claims. Please give me some type of power draw comparison, id love to see it. I'm not trying to be sarcastic either I genuinely want to see this.Currently, my "crap" downloaded over a million times, and so far no one has been found whose console has been irreversibly damaged. Stop talking nonsense, continuing to lie to people. People are not stupid, for each of them your lie sooner or later becomes clear.
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Bulls**t. 4IFIR with using optimized modes (undervolted), draws less battery power then vanila SysCLK, even when we compairing 1.5GHz (4IFIR) vs 0.9GHz (SysCLK), lol.
Not to mention the fact that the console cannot, in principle, consume too much current, since the battery is equipped with its own controller, which will go into protection when it senses danger. The battery manufacturer who wrote the firmware for this controller is much more aware of what values may be dangerous than the RetroNX devs.
I've tried with a brand new battery on a burner system, and a full 1.785 921 on an Erista at full charged dropped the voltage from 4.212v to 3.312v. I forgot what the low battery shutoff voltage was but if I remember correctly it was around 3.250~3.200v. Essentially the current draw is so high (order of above 4.5A, though it averaged 4.85~5.103A) that the voltage drops to the point of the PMIC hitting the shutdown signal.i'm using a version of this that lifts the caps in handheld mode (got it from 4pda) in addition to supporting memory overclocking, but just when the battery is around 50% if i'm using high clocks the device shuts off, seems like there is no solution for this....
921MHz on the gpu fully loaded can max out the 18watt board power limit. While the power regulators can technically handle higher, that's only for power spikes and not meant for continuous use. 1.785 460 is already very close to about 18watts. 768 leaves just enough headroom for 1.224ghz. While this does lower the systems life (as all overclocking does), extreme OC would still leave the system with around 3-4ish years to last. 1.581 depending on gpu load should be fine, but that goes for all switch oc, the power draw depends on how loaded the system is.What are the *actual* limits of what's considered safe for Switch overclocking both in handheld and docked mode? While I've yet to experience any issues testing a multitude of OC combinations, there seems to be a lot of mixed information of what clocks are acceptable or too much based on use case.
For example, I generally hear that you shouldn't go above 1224 Mhz CPU / 460 Mhz GPU / 1862.4 Mhz RAM when running off the battery, but there doesn't appear to be any limits pushing the CPU to the 1785 Mhz max in sys-clk with or without the other OCs engaged, nor *based on my tests* does it appear to pull quite as much power as pushing the GPU (which does have an imposed limit at 460 Mhz without the charger). While the system does get warmer, actual heat also hasn't been a big problem and stays below the shutdown threshold.
People also say that going above the developer OC of 1224, or even 1581 Mhz in general, is unsafe due to the actual board not designed to handle that throughput of voltage or power longterm, or the battery being incapable of pushing out the power efficiently enough at higher CPU clocks. Is this actually true, or is this just treated as the boogieman of Switch overclocking? I've yet to hear of anyone over the last 3 years actually burning out or damaging their Switch as a result of this, and the batteries can be replaced if they get worn down (I've done so with mine).
This is assuming the Switch is an Erista unit.
Im sorry if this was asked already, I tried searching the thread but didnt really get an answer.
I want to play BOTW, in docked mode, it runs like crap in most places, sub 30fps, handheld seems much better.
Im running CEMU on my pc and I want to interchange between switch and pc and sub 30fps is way to hard to deal with.
Is there a recommended setting for BOTW docked mode? also what are the implications long term on doing these changes?
You could use Reverse-NX to force it into handheld mode even when it's docked, which on most games downscales the graphics. It's a popular trick for scarlet/violet.
and for sys-clk, whatever the "max safe" settings for your chipset are; Like for Erista that's:
docked_cpu=1786
docked_gpu=768
docked_mem=1600
sys-clk is the actual clockspeed selector. Reverse NX changes the consoles state from docked to handheld and vice versa. For NX-FPS just extract the contents of the zip into the root of the SD card.Aha, that's actually what I wanted, less quality to naturally bump performance. Thank you.
Im quite a noob at all this, do I need to reverse nx and if so, those settings you posted, do I put them on reverse nx or on sys clk? I'm quite confused.
On another note, I would like to see the fps with the status monitor and from what I understand, I need nx fps for that, I downloaded it but not sure where to put the folder/file, it comes a ELF file.