How to spot a fake Sandisk card

I finally was the unfortunate recipient of a fake card, and would like to point out several things you can look at before ever opening the package. I actually did open the package, so I can show an example of what a fake card reports in nyx as well.
EDIT: Forgot to point out that real packaging always has that top hole punched out. This fake one actually had it still in there (as is often the case with fake packages). It simply popped out while I was opening the package.
Let's start with the fake:

FakeBackside.JPG

My notes on the image say it all. Or at least a good bit. I'm no expert.

IMG_1373.JPG

Again, my notes cover this pic as well.

This is just an example of what a fake card might report to nyx, via the mmc hardware:
BogusID.JPG

Pretty much everything here is wrong. Why this screen? I wanted to swap in the card while nyx was already loaded, in order to let nyx format it. But as, is (formatted to exFAT with a 256kb cluster), nyx could not read the hekate/atmosphere files from the card. My mod chip wouldn't even load hekate with the card. The loading problems were fixed by using mini tool partition wizard to format it to fat32 with 64kb clusters, but it still showed this same info. UHS: U0. Video Class: V0. Application performance class: A0. Current speed 25MB/s... get it? How about the bogus serial number? Should have letters in there, end definitely not a bunch of zeros in a row. No vendor or OEM ID, bogus model, and no H/W or F/W revision either. And by the way, if you use something like mini tool partition wizard to format a card DO NOT TOUCH THE "EMPTY" 64MB PARTITION IN FRONT OF THE CARD! There is actually information there that NEEDS to be there. I didn't make that mistake this time, but in my ignorance, I feel that I have caused others to make that mistake in the past.


Now lets compare to a REAL 1TB Sandisk Extreme card (sorry, I didn't want to pay for an Extreme Pro):
IMG_1387.JPG

IMG_1389.JPG

IMG_1393.JPG

This is a view of the top/bottom of the bubble that the card sits in. I tried to add a note to the full package pic, but it may be hard to read. The nice curved indention is not usually on a fake.

IMG_1394.JPG

Serial number removed for obvious reasons. Don't forget these things have a lifetime warranty. As long as your serial number/card is legit.

IMG_1396.JPG


And finally, minus an obscured serial number, here is the kind of information a legit card should be reporting to nyx:
nyx20230326_151231.png

Correct speed classes, Bootloader bus, Vendor, Model, HW and FW revisions... and don't forget a legit-looking UNIQUE serial number.

I sincerely hope that this info can prevent heartache. Some of these shameless fake sellers actually show pics of the fake packaging and/or fake product codes. At the very least, this should help you decide to return/report, before actually opening the package. If you get it from Amazon, and the item is "fulfilled by Amazon", there is a high chance of a refund even if you've opened the package. But always check the actual seller and read the seller's reviews as well! Outside of some really special sale or COMBO deal from a big-name seller, you are crazy to not be suspicious of a 1TB selling for $100 or less.
 

zxr750j

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Been so long since I bought a 200GB card myself probably 7-8 years ago.
Value for money: the largest cards cost more per GB (I'm a cheapskate, actually my girfriend stears me to being one)...

I haven't received the replacement yet, just hoping Sandisk doesn't send me a fake one...
For the mean time: I bought a 128GB Kingston card from Amazon (€8,79)
@ghjfdtg : next time I'll try this first!

Post automatically merged:

Sounds like a proper erase can fix this. I had several different SD cards which slowed down over time and erase fixed it. It's the same idea used on SSDs but there it's called TRIM.
Older SDFormatter versions had an erase format option but it needs a PCIe based card reader because USB readers can't pass through the needed commands to the SD. Under Linux you can archive the same via the blkdiscard tool.
Next time I'll try this!
 
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urherenow

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Update on my fake card return: My bank is in USD, but I live in Japan, so I order from amazon.co.jp whenever possible (and whenever the price isn't inflated because of import). Not only did my return hit the bank, but the JPY->USD rate dropped a bit, so I was refunded $0.35 more than what I was charged. Lol...
 

fjdjks

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when i select target in h2testw , it only shows my desktop and user profile. i've used it before, not sure what changed. anyone know how to fix this?
 

Redhorse

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Are there any disk defragmenters that will work on a Switch-used card?

By that, I mean a card that has already (still being) been used on the switch without erasing it and will still be used on the switch afterward. without having to erase all 100 + games and redownload. ??

I've noticed most times a card is used on a computer, aside from backing it up or copying from it, the switch sees it as not usable without reformatting.

I simply want to defrag the cart after extensive use...
 

zxr750j

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Are there any disk defragmenters that will work on a Switch-used card?

By that, I mean a card that has already (still being) been used on the switch without erasing it and will still be used on the switch afterward. without having to erase all 100 + games and redownload. ??

I've noticed most times a card is used on a computer, aside from backing it up or copying from it, the switch sees it as not usable without reformatting.

I simply want to defrag the cart after extensive use...
2 easy options: Make a backup (to be sure) and just use windows defrag. Make sure you eject the hardware safely from usb before disconnecting from windows. Or backup the files to pc, delete them from SD and restore them, this will do the trick nicely.
 

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