OLED Switch Joycon not connecting when docked. What is damaged?

saaif88

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Hey everyone,

I have a very strange problem here. I have an OLED switch with a PICOFLY installed into it, and everything works perfectly, except, for some reason, the right side joycon is not detected when connected to the console, it only connects via bluetooth.

I have checked for shorts, damaged connectors and damaged joycons, with none to be found, and the strange thing is, the values of the pins for both sides of the switch work fine when nothing is connected, but there is some unusual behaviour when the joy cons are connected.

Here is the right side rail that is not working, with no joy cons connected:

IMG_1393.jpg


And here is the left side rail with no joy con connected:

IMG_1394.jpg


As you can hopefully see, there is no difference between the two rails. All of the values are what they are supposed to be. Here is the working side values with the joy con connected:

IMG_1395.jpg


And here is the side that is not working with the joy con connected:

IMG_1396.jpg


The main problem I am seeing here is that Pin 5, which is used to send serial data to the switch, is not getting pulled down properly on the side that is broken. On the working Joycon, this pin gets pulled from 1.8V to GND, with a very low resistance path to GND, and then connects just fine to the console. Pin 5 on the broken rail has a very low voltage (0.16V), and a very high resistance to GND, which is making me think that it is not being pulled down correctly.

Does anyone have any idea what component controls this behaviour? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!
 

thesjaakspoiler

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Pin 5 on the broken rail has a very low voltage (0.16V), and a very high resistance to GND, which is making me think that it is not being pulled down correctly.
In some cases this is an indication that something got knocked off the mainboard or joycon.
Can you borrow a joycon from a friend to see whether it's the joycon or the mainboard?

But in most cases it's the connector not making a good enough connection., even though it looks like the cable is seated properly.
 
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BigOnYa

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Hey everyone,

I have a very strange problem here. I have an OLED switch with a PICOFLY installed into it, and everything works perfectly, except, for some reason, the right side joycon is not detected when connected to the console, it only connects via bluetooth.
I seen a post way back with same issue, but couldn't find it, but they removed the metal, and damaged a trace on the mobo below it, which caused the right rail to quit working. Maybe check in that area where you removed the metal. Good luck!
Screenshot 2024-01-15 190409.png

-Edit- this pic is an example and not nessecary where you may have cut away the metal.
 
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Hassal

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That's not how you diagnose the the problem. Get a working rail and connect a known joycon and see if you get connection.
If not your next step to check the FPC connector.

The above post is wrong because the joycon rail is located at the left side not top, so you need to check near the left side of SoC shield if you damaged any traces.

Also check the joycon ic.
FszTL8eXoAYew6e.jpg
 
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BigOnYa

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That's not how you diagnose the the problem. Get a working rail and connect a known joycon and see if you get connection.
If not your next step to check the FPC connector.

The above post is wrong because the joycon rail is located at the left side not top, so you need to check near the left side of SoC shield if you damaged any traces.

Also check the joycon ic.
View attachment 414176
That pic was from different thread. Yes different area on board, but it was so that OP get my point on traces could be damaged when you remove the metal.
 

Myst0gan

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Probably this is the solution https://gbatemp.net/threads/switch-...fter-installing-picofly.645161/#post-10323984
Post automatically merged:

Same problem here, magic installed and after it right controller not detected.. Any suggess?
Check the flex, rail and the connector, if they're all good, then check the area that @BigOnYa pointed out, if those are all good, then it has to be that handshake chip.
 
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saaif88

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Apologies for the super late reply everyone, but yes, as @BigOnYa mentioned, I managed to damage a trace directly underneath the metal frame of the APU, and I could not see it without cutting that part of the frame. This damage was from using a pair of tweezers to take off the EMI shield.

I managed to solder the trace back together and used some UV cure solder mask to cover it up. So far it is working normally.

The layout of the boards are slightly different between revisions it seems, but this trace is directly underneath one of the clips for the EMI shield on the frame.

Thanks for all of the help everyone!

IMG_1409.jpg


IMG_1410.jpg
 
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