Just to add with the mosfet, make sure to use awg34 or 32 (thicker wire) for the drain. I use 34awg and works everytime. I had issues with 36 or 40awg for drain based on my experience.
And yes, it is working good with instant glitch.Just follow the image above and you will be good. Dont forget to isolate with kapton tape in the end.
Just to add with the mosfet, make sure to use awg34 or 32 (thicker wire) for the drain.
Well, I switched to the front and still ==*.
Switch works without that cap. You can also replace that cap with ones found on rp2040 board.Well, while trying to change the wires I broke the CPU cap. I guess that ends this adventure! Thanks again for all your help friends, appreciate it!
I think I'll put in an order with digikey and use the shipping time to cool my heels.Switch works without that cap. You can also replace that cap with ones found on rp2040 board.
Don't give up, remove everything, clean everything, start over.
Seems that you need better tools or skills (or both).
Use 0.1-0.5 solder tip, use led based solder wire, good flux. Use 350°-400° temperature for short period of time (don't overheat the components or the board). For Source connection use apu shield instead of the square point on the apu itself.
Try to avoid using magnet (enameled) wire, if you don't have experience with it you might end up with cold joint or a short somewhere, use 36-40awg pfa or ptfe or silicone wire.
Good luck
Yes, a couple of times. Works greatwho installed picofly to unpatched v1 before? worked?
I spent two hours yesterday on a console.
Error ==*
I tested different mosfets.
In the end the error came from the fact that I was using a chip that was already used on another console.
By changing the chip, it starts perfectly.
Hi do you have a photo of your installation with this mosfet?few things.
1. the chip is busted, try to check the resistor at d0/clk/cmd line.
2. the mosfet is bad, i had a bunch of IRH mosfets (50+) of them are bad. I just switch from aon6414a and never had this issue.
View attachment 421467
you can force reset the chip by connecting pin0 to gnd on power-on. might have saved you the swap
Many times. final result identical to V2who installed picofly to unpatched v1 before? worked?
I completely agree with this important detail mentioned by @QuiTimTry to avoid using magnet (enameled) wire, if you don't have experience with it you might end up with cold joint or a short somewhere, use 36-40awg pfa or ptfe or silicone wire.
Those solder joints look fragile . Dont mind with the broken capacitor. I've seen several cases of people who still managed to glitch their consoles even after damaging the capacitor.Well, I switched to the front and still ==*.
...but I will try switching the wire to a larger gauge before complaining too much
All points make correct continuity, this photo was taken after I reopened so I haven't tidied the thermal paste.
Can you post a better picture of mosfet solderin (from little further away) because i am not able to see good.Sorry if I don't use the forum correctly, it's the first time I've posted something.
I already installed the rp2040 to my console. I have already installed before, but now I had a problem. The chip light flashed 2 long times and one short time. But I already changed the flex twice. Now place the mosfet on the back of the board but everything is the same.
Note: Already console was fine. But I left him downloading a game at night and the next morning he wouldn't enter the hack.
Note 2: I also changed the chip and everything remains the same.
Note: 3. currently I have ==*
hey guys. Looking at this installation, I wonder if:Sorry if I don't use the forum correctly, it's the first time I've posted something.
I already installed the rp2040 to my console. I have already installed before, but now I had a problem. The chip light flashed 2 long times and one short time. But I already changed the flex twice. Now place the mosfet on the back of the board but everything is the same.
Note: Already console was fine. But I left him downloading a game at night and the next morning he wouldn't enter the hack.
Note 2: I also changed the chip and everything remains the same.
Note: 3. currently I have ==*
I have never installed one of these but there are several users on these forums who use this model and say it works very well. I leave the pinout here:I tried to use an AON6414A mosfet and still get an error ==*. Does anyone have a photo of its setup?
THANKS
Glad to ear it .Want to share some pic´s of it? Thanks
great job ! it looks very cleanSure!
Here are some images of the Lite with a hwfly lite installed running picofly 2.73:
View attachment 422096View attachment 422097View attachment 422098
Here are some images of the Mariko V2 with hwfly core installed running picofly 2.73:
View attachment 422100View attachment 422102
Glitching works quite well on both and after the first learning process, glitching usually takes less than 3 seconds. Thank you again for your hard work!