Just to add with the mosfet, make sure to use awg34 or 32 (thicker wire) for the drain. I use 34awg and works everytime. I had issues with 36 or 40awg for drain based on my experience.
Well, I switched to the front and still ==*.
...but I will try switching the wire to a larger gauge before complaining too much
All points make correct continuity, this photo was taken after I reopened so I haven't tidied the thermal paste.
few things.
1. the chip is busted, try to check the resistor at d0/clk/cmd line.
2. the mosfet is bad, i had a bunch of IRH mosfets (50+) of them are bad. I just switch from aon6414a and never had this issue.
Switch works without that cap. You can also replace that cap with ones found on rp2040 board.
Don't give up, remove everything, clean everything, start over.
Seems that you need better tools or skills (or both).
Use 0.1-0.5 solder tip, use led based solder wire, good flux. Use 350°-400° temperature for short period of time (don't overheat the components or the board). For Source connection use apu shield instead of the square point on the apu itself.
Try to avoid using magnet (enameled) wire, if you don't have experience with it you might end up with cold joint or a short somewhere, use 36-40awg pfa or ptfe or silicone wire.
Good luck
I think I'll put in an order with digikey and use the shipping time to cool my heels.
There is definitely a skill issue, but I want to learn and this particular switch was already in rough cosmetic shape so it's as good a test bed as anything.
Tools are a cobbled together set that I'm upgrading as I go, but I think I'm mostly limited by ability.
Stripping the cap was a mishandled tweezer trying to bend the wire already soldered to the cap. I thought I had it pinned with one set, but it wasn't actually pinched. Doh!
I spent two hours yesterday on a console.
Error ==*
I tested different mosfets.
In the end the error came from the fact that I was using a chip that was already used on another console.
By changing the chip, it starts perfectly.
Error ==*
I tested different mosfets.
In the end the error came from the fact that I was using a chip that was already used on another console.
By changing the chip, it starts perfectly.
you can force reset the chip by connecting pin0 to gnd on power-on. might have saved you the swap
Here are some examples of the installation I did today on a customer's OLED switch.
I always follow the same basic electronics principles in a fusion of knowledge acquired in this forum on the best tips for a successful installation.Said that, lets begin :
I always start by removing the metal protection from the CPU with a needle tip and being very careful not to damage any of the components around the metal fittings. Then glue the mosfet aligned with the soldering points (Source and Drain)
I always start by removing the metal protection from the CPU with a needle tip and being very careful not to damage any of the components around the metal fittings. Then glue the mosfet aligned with the soldering points (Source and Drain)
I keep the wire that connects the source to the capacitor very short and always use the cpu metal shield for the grd connection (30 AWG for both). It doesn't take me more than 10 minutes to complete this part of the installation. The result is this:
Now, just isolate these connections with kapton, place thermal paste on top of the CPU core and close the metal protection shield. Now moving to the Dat0 point over kamikaze. Mark the right spot to slowly start drilling and go for it. I prefer to remove the 2 layers and then look for the under shadow of the ~Dat0 via wich you can already spot on this image. now i can be more acurate to expose the circle "head" of the via:
then, solder mask all over the grd connections, and a litle bit of flux on the copper circle.I always choose the magetic wire for CMD, CLK, DAT0 e RESET because its a very thin wire and prevents damage to any of the soldered components such as small capacitors, resistors or small pads
First, I solder all the wires to the points and only at the end do I connect them to the picofly. I always recommend that you glue the magnetic wires to the motherboard as protective anchors in order to protect these fragile connections (some people accidentally pull the wires and break the paths\components to which they were soldered). Now let's install Modchip...
I always follow this installation model and have already done dozens of installations without ever having (to date) a malfunction like a purple screen or something like that. I leave a test video with instant boot of 2 seconds using only 1 mosfet connected to 1 capacitor only.
I hope this advice helps some of you to be successful in your installations and electronics projects
. Dont mind with the broken capacitor. I've seen several cases of people who still managed to glitch their consoles even after damaging the capacitor.
I always follow the same basic electronics principles in a fusion of knowledge acquired in this forum on the best tips for a successful installation.Said that, lets begin :
I always start by removing the metal protection from the CPU with a needle tip and being very careful not to damage any of the components around the metal fittings. Then glue the mosfet aligned with the soldering points (Source and Drain)
I always start by removing the metal protection from the CPU with a needle tip and being very careful not to damage any of the components around the metal fittings. Then glue the mosfet aligned with the soldering points (Source and Drain)
I keep the wire that connects the source to the capacitor very short and always use the cpu metal shield for the grd connection (30 AWG for both). It doesn't take me more than 10 minutes to complete this part of the installation. The result is this:
Now, just isolate these connections with kapton, place thermal paste on top of the CPU core and close the metal protection shield. Now moving to the Dat0 point over kamikaze. Mark the right spot to slowly start drilling and go for it. I prefer to remove the 2 layers and then look for the under shadow of the ~Dat0 via wich you can already spot on this image. now i can be more acurate to expose the circle "head" of the via:
then, solder mask all over the grd connections, and a litle bit of flux on the copper circle.I always choose the magetic wire for CMD, CLK, DAT0 e RESET because its a very thin wire and prevents damage to any of the soldered components such as small capacitors, resistors or small pads
First, I solder all the wires to the points and only at the end do I connect them to the picofly. I always recommend that you glue the magnetic wires to the motherboard as protective anchors in order to protect these fragile connections (some people accidentally pull the wires and break the paths\components to which they were soldered). Now let's install Modchip...
I always follow this installation model and have already done dozens of installations without ever having (to date) a malfunction like a purple screen or something like that. I leave a test video with instant boot of 2 seconds using only 1 mosfet connected to 1 capacitor only.
I hope this advice helps some of you to be successful in your installations and electronics projects
Post automatically merged:
Many times. final result identical to V2
I completely agree with this important detail mentioned by @QuiTim
Post automatically merged:
Those solder joints look fragileWell, I switched to the front and still ==*.
...but I will try switching the wire to a larger gauge before complaining too much
All points make correct continuity, this photo was taken after I reopened so I haven't tidied the thermal paste.
. Dont mind with the broken capacitor. I've seen several cases of people who still managed to glitch their consoles even after damaging the capacitor.
Last edited by Viktorsilva,
Sorry if I don't use the forum correctly, it's the first time I've posted something.
I already installed the rp2040 to my console. I have already installed before, but now I had a problem. The chip light flashed 2 long times and one short time. But I already changed the flex twice. Now place the mosfet on the back of the board but everything is the same.
Note: Already console was fine. But I left him downloading a game at night and the next morning he wouldn't enter the hack.
Note 2: I also changed the chip and everything remains the same.
Note: 3. currently I have ==*
I already installed the rp2040 to my console. I have already installed before, but now I had a problem. The chip light flashed 2 long times and one short time. But I already changed the flex twice. Now place the mosfet on the back of the board but everything is the same.
Note: Already console was fine. But I left him downloading a game at night and the next morning he wouldn't enter the hack.
Note 2: I also changed the chip and everything remains the same.
Note: 3. currently I have ==*
Attachments
Can you post a better picture of mosfet solderin (from little further away) because i am not able to see good.
I dont think you are using these points:
Attachments
hey guys. Looking at this installation, I wonder if:
- if any point-to-point continuity test was carried out (very important to determine whether the magnet wire was stripped at the connection points)
-What is the console model?
- Was the removal of the CPU flex done well?
-Are these points you are using on the back of the motherboard? Can you take a photo from further away to see better?
I have never installed one of these but there are several users on these forums who use this model and say it works very well. I leave the pinout here:
Glad to ear it
Sure!
Here are some images of the Lite with a hwfly lite installed running picofly 2.73:
Here are some images of the Mariko V2 with hwfly core installed running picofly 2.73:
Glitching works quite well on both and after the first learning process, glitching usually takes less than 3 seconds. Thank you again for your hard work!
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