Hardware PD4Wii, PD4WiiU - A DIY USB-C replacement for the Wii and Wii U power adapter

[jacobsson]

I made a dongle the other day and it seems to be able to charge 2x wiimotes and 1x gamepad while running Zelda BOTW. I used this decoy module (which can change voltages with a solder bridge) and a WiiU power plug . A 3d-printed little face plate and I'd look decent.

 

[EnterpriseFreak]

I made a dongle the other day and it seems to be able to charge 2x wiimotes and 1x gamepad while running Zelda BOTW. I used this decoy module (which can change voltages with a solder bridge) and a WiiU power plug . A 3d-printed little face plate and I'd look decent.

Very nice find that power plug. Here's a fun fact: the very first version of PD4WiiU used that exact same decoy but then I ditched it in favor of the PDC004 due to it's smaller footprint. As for the total power consumption: Assuming you haven't made any mods to bypass the 500mA limit on the USB ports that should put you at around 37 - 40 Watt power consumption. 30 - 35W for the console itself (depends on if you're playing from a Disc or not) and then 2.5W per USB device attached to the console.

Anyway, I think I should talk about the progress V2 of PD4Wii(U) while I'm at it. The design is like 99.99999% complete now but I'm experimenting with different materials for the print right now, that's why I haven't updated the OP yet. I've been using PLA so far but I have concern about it being too fragile for the part that goes into the port of the console. I've got a spool of PETG filament yesterday and actually wanted to do a test print then but guess what... A certain someone broke the hotend of his printer while installing a titanium heatbreak... If nothing changes I should have a new hotend by tomorrow and then I can finally test how viable PETG would be for the connector. Sorry for the wait!

 

[jacobsson]

Very nice find that power plug. Here's a fun fact: the very first version of PD4WiiU used that exact same decoy but then I ditched it in favor of the PDC004 due to it's smaller footprint. As for the total power consumption: Assuming you haven't made any mods to bypass the 500mA limit on the USB ports that should put you at around 37 - 40 Watt power consumption. 30 - 35W for the console itself (depends on if you're playing from a Disc or not) and then 2.5W per USB device attached to the console.

I actually have made the bypass mod to the back ports as it wouldn't charge all devices correctly before. I'm thinking of doing it for the front USBs as well so that module seem to let it draw pass 3a @15v, I should actually confirm this with an wall power meter.

The PDC004 would be perfect for the power plug I linked as you prob wouldn't need to cut the any of the PCB, maybe even keep the clips. I'm making one version with the PDC004 as well. All you'd need is a nice front plate for the port itself.

 

[EnterpriseFreak]

Semi-final update. Finally fixed my printer yesterday and did some test prints of the plug using PETG instead of PLA. Worked out just as I wanted it, it's much stronger now which for obvious reasons that's great. Will probably rework the OP today or tomorrow. Just have to make pictures of the assembly process now and then it's time to rewrite everything.

Post automatically merged: Sep 10, 2023

I'd love to see such guide!

Aaand it's done. Enjoy. Complete with images and everything.

 

[greg3k]

Hey Im building one, thanks for the guide and models! Getting it printed from a service ($20 total from xometry)

Any recommendations for the cheapest small USB-C PD charging block for this?
I don't think any do 12V @ 5A which would be the match to the OEM brick.

Thanks.

 

[Retro-Hax]

I jsut found this Thread today but holy F! I am so gonna do that once my 3D Printer arrives!
Will there also be an option for the Wii U Gamepad?

 

[EnterpriseFreak]

Hey Im building one, thanks for the guide and models! Getting it printed from a service ($20 total from xometry)

Any recommendations for the cheapest small USB-C PD charging block for this?
I don't think any do 12V @ 5A which would be the match to the OEM brick.

Thanks.

Don't really have a recommendation for a charge brick. Even launch day Wiis run fine with 3A so you don't have to go out of your way to find a QC Charger that supports 12V @ 5A.

I jsut found this Thread today but holy F! I am so gonna do that once my 3D Printer arrives!
Will there also be an option for the Wii U Gamepad?

I really don't think I'll be creating a dongle for the Gamepad anytime soon especially since I already modded mine to have a USB-C port over a year ago. Here's a link to a thread I made about that mod back then: https://gbatemp.net/threads/just-added-usb-c-to-my-gamepad.607238/

 

[jmlee337]

I got a batch of snap together plugs where the inner power connection looks like the attached photo. Would anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to solder it to my power wires? It seems like soldering a wire to a pin like this might not give a very strong connection, and I also melted the plastic housing somewhat on my first attempt

 

[EnterpriseFreak]

I got a batch of snap together plugs where the inner power connection looks like the attached photo. Would anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to solder it to my power wires? It seems like soldering a wire to a pin like this might not give a very strong connection, and I also melted the plastic housing somewhat on my first attempt

Hi! Sorry for the late reply, I was busy with things. First off try to use solder that melts at a low temperature (there's some that claim to melt at a temperature of about 80 °C which would be below the melting point of ABS plastic) and use a soldering iron which allows you to control the temperature too. Strip a good bit of the wire (from looking at the picture I'd assume 2 - 3mm maybe) and push the stripped wire into the grove, then fill up the grove with solder so that the contacts and the wire have a lot of surface area connecting them.

 

[jmlee337]

Hi! Sorry for the late reply, I was busy with things. First off try to use solder that melts at a low temperature (there's some that claim to melt at a temperature of about 80 °C which would be below the melting point of ABS plastic) and use a soldering iron which allows you to control the temperature too. Strip a good bit of the wire (from looking at the picture I'd assume 2 - 3mm maybe) and push the stripped wire into the grove, then fill up the grove with solder so that the contacts and the wire have a lot of surface area connecting them.

oh you're supposed to get all the way in there! That helps a lot I'll try again, thanks!

 

[BaamAlex]

I do a project on my Wii atm and soldered out the power connector (because of the project ).

Could it be that the layout in your picture is wrong? The Wii connector is the Wii U connector and the Wii U connector fits the Wii. If I have made a mistake in my thinking...please ignore it. I just have the connector in my hand. See picture.

 

[EnterpriseFreak]

I do a project on my Wii atm and soldered out the power connector (because of the project ).

Could it be that the layout in your picture is wrong? The Wii connector is the Wii U connector and the Wii U connector fits the Wii. If I have made a mistake in my thinking...please ignore it. I just have the connector in my hand. See picture.

The picture represents the male connector (the one on the PSU itself). It would be wrong from your point of view because you're looking at the female connector. I've attached a picture of the "official" pinout found on the EUR power brick which shows the same layout I've used.

 

[BaamAlex]

I found a thread on Reddit. And I love this mod. No cutting required. Looks clean imho.

 

[gamerabbit]

Can you give a link for the ZYPDH ?

Post automatically merged: Mar 28, 2024

Can you give the link for the ZYPDH ?

Post automatically merged: Mar 28, 2024

I got a batch of snap together plugs where the inner power connection looks like the attached photo. Would anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to solder it to my power wires? It seems like soldering a wire to a pin like this might not give a very strong connection, and I also melted the plastic housing somewhat on my first attempt

where did you buy this ?

 

[BaamAlex]

where did you buy this ?

Any decoy shaped like this should work. Amazon has a lot of them.

 

[gamerabbit]

Any decoy shaped like this should work. Amazon has a lot of them.

this is better than the ZYPDH ?
because i want to plus any powers supply that can hendel 15-20 v

Post automatically merged: Mar 28, 2024

and that one 100W 5A USB Type-C Decoy PD 2.0 3.0 TO 5V 9V 12V 15V 20V DC Trigger Adapter Module QC4 QC5 Charge Charging Notebook

In my case I went for a decoy that's PD and QC compatible, the ZYPDH. It has the following specs: 100W 5A USB Type-C Decoy PD 2.0 3.0 TO 5V 9V 12V 15V 20V DC Trigger Adapter Module QC4 QC5 Charge Charging Notebook

Can't post links, look it up on Ali

Soldered the Wii U connector to the decoy, used the charger and USB-C cable from my Xiaomi 11T that's QC3 and voilá... The charger can provide up to 67W and the cable is rated for 6A, although the same cable for some reason can't provide 12v, it provides 9 and 15. For that reason, for the consoles that need 12v (like the GC and Wii), I used a Switch Pro Controller USB cable than CAN provide 12v with the same charger.

The PD protocol seems to be more limited than QC.

Ended up making a bunch of those adapters for my consoles, I been using them for 1-2 monts without any issues.

 

[BaamAlex]

this is better than the ZYPDH ?
because i want to plus any powers supply that can hendel 15-20 v

Electricity flows through the devices...I don't know how to answer your question "better". The current cannot flow better through one device than through the other. And if you had clicked on my link, your question would answer itself. There are different modules. 9v, 12v, 15v and 20v. For Wii you need 12v and for Wii u 15v.

 

[gamerabbit]

Electricity flows through the devices...I don't know how to answer your question "better". The current cannot flow better through one device than through the other. And if you had clicked on my link, your question would answer itself. There are different modules. 9v, 12v, 15v and 20v. For Wii you need 12v and for Wii u 15v.

i mean more for the protocol
like pd or qc

 

[BaamAlex]

i mean more for the protocol
like pd or qc

Depending on the parts you use to build one, chargers using USB-PD, Qualcomm QC, or ones compliant with both protocols can be used.

 

[gamerabbit]

does an iphone charger work ?
or a school laptop power supply (with usb c) can hendel 20v at 1.5 a or 15v at 2 a ?

Post automatically merged: Mar 28, 2024

and 12v at 2.5 a

Post automatically merged: Mar 28, 2024

Depending on the parts you use to build one, chargers using USB-PD, Qualcomm QC, or ones compliant with both protocols can be used.

which is the best