Ok now I have black screen with sound when I touch the screen or use joycons somehow. Doesn't make sense and yes it displays fine when docked. I reseated the lcd ribbon cable multiple times with no luck. Please help
Now im finsh mod oled console i have 512 gp sandisk and i want emummc. The step now i want to do nand backup. But If do emummc it will delet nand inside sd card thanks picofly family... 
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Use microscope and see inside lce conector yes you damge pins coz you not insert the ribon like you frist hold from left and right and slide it to the back side in dowen littel bit it will be outside place easy. Back to place agine same use plastic lcd tools no damge no scratch. No damge ever... Ribon is make this pins jump from place easy.((oled console only))
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Last edited by Danook28,
Hello,
I have an OLED refusing to turn on.
I can see no damages on the board, no shortcuts around power management ICs and the driver of the screen.
The board draws :
Screen connected
- with battery: 0,469A
- without battery : 0,033A and if I reverse the usb c connector I have between 0,005 - 0,008A
Without screen
- with battery : 0,469A with both usb-c side
- without battery: 0,006A switching to 0A and
looping but if I reverse the usb c port I have 0,033A
No reactions of the picofly.
My emmc could be faulty ?
I have an OLED refusing to turn on.
I can see no damages on the board, no shortcuts around power management ICs and the driver of the screen.
The board draws :
Screen connected
- with battery: 0,469A
- without battery : 0,033A and if I reverse the usb c connector I have between 0,005 - 0,008A
Without screen
- with battery : 0,469A with both usb-c side
- without battery: 0,006A switching to 0A and
looping but if I reverse the usb c port I have 0,033A
No reactions of the picofly.
My emmc could be faulty ?
I replaced the MAX7780 1EWP voltage regulator with a new one and the console is back to life. No more errors or weird behavior during glitching or after. Will test it for the next few days to see how it behaves, Thanks @superxoi @abal1000x and @jkyoho
I still cannot explain why this IC got shorted, but probably it was a local short, maybe due to some solder drop from the iron. Even if I clean everything thoroughly, I still imagine this is more probable cause than the eventual heating due to eMMC reball, since the heat is concentrated on the opposite side and different region of the PCB.
Thanks for your insights @Viktorsilva, though I must say that I'm not comfortable on drilling multi-layer PCB and I feel to disagree on your view of "The Kamikaze method is 100% safe". But I'm glad you got it working
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Was it working before or did this happened after chip install?
What are your diode readings for +3.3V and DATA points of the Pico?
Last edited by Phantomas77,
I replaced the MAX7780 1EWP voltage regulator with a new one and the console is back to life. No more errors or weird behavior during glitching or after. Will test it for the next few days to see how it behaves, Thanks @superxoi @abal1000x and @jkyoho
I still cannot explain why this IC got shorted, but probably it was a local short, maybe due to some solder drop from the iron. Even if I clean everything thoroughly, I still imagine this is more probable cause than the eventual heating due to eMMC reball, since the heat is concentrated on the opposite side and different region of the PCB.
Thanks for your insights @Viktorsilva, though I must say that I'm not comfortable on drilling multi-layer PCB and I feel to disagree on your view of "The Kamikaze method is 100% safe". But I'm glad you got it working
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Was it working before or did this happened after chip install?
What are your diode readings for +3.3V and DATA points of the Pico?
Hello, just before that, the console was booting but the screen was not working cos the dat0 adapter shorted the 2 tests points above the emmc, so I was thinking that the oled driver ic was faulty so I removed it to try without. And since this moment the console refuse to boot.
Im going to reball the emmc and remove the adapter.
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Nop, I reballed the emmc and did a permanent dat0 and I still have the same issue. Maybe I burned the oled driver ic, but its weird on my screen connector all the values are good.
I have to wait to receive the IC :/
Last edited by Eds05,
Which RP2040 board are you using?
It looks like your console is stuck in one of the boot stages. More details about fault diagnostic and general boot sequence you can find on this (excellent) wiki: https://www.retrosix.wiki/first-stage-boot-short-checks
While you read through it, measure all the points connected to Pico with multimeter in diode mode (red probe on GND) and report values here, it could help to understand if the values are ok and there're no short on DATA lines and +3.3V rail. Eventually remove the Pico and CPU MOSFETs, the wires you can just isolate so they don't create an unwanted short.
Measure all the caps around M92T36, BQ24193, P13USB and MAX chips to see if there're no shorts as well.
Follow the steps in the wiki to see if you can identify any of the issues.
Now that for some reason after letting my switch battery die... I got fully black screen with no green spots like the pictures I attached. Also the joycon and touch screen are responsive. Sound is great and I can hear my self moving around. I spoke with seller(aliexpress) that I got the modded motherboard from and he asked me to return it because it might be bad connector. Is it possible, to have such symptoms for faulty mother board or lcd connecter?? Should I return it or Try to fix the screen? I'm confused
Hello everybody
I have an rp2040 clone ordered from Ali. I installed it on my switch v2 and I get an RST error at boot. The rst point of the chip is shorted. When I remove the battery, the short circuit is no longer. When I put the battery back in and restart it comes back with the error **.
By changing the chip, the console boots well on hekate.
I have an rp2040 clone ordered from Ali. I installed it on my switch v2 and I get an RST error at boot. The rst point of the chip is shorted. When I remove the battery, the short circuit is no longer. When I put the battery back in and restart it comes back with the error **.
By changing the chip, the console boots well on hekate.
Just don't buy clones and purchase RP2040 directly from Waveshare
If the seller accepted to replace it for you, consider asking if he can send you a "new" board while you're sending yours back to him. This way it can shorten the waiting time for you.
If you know your cfw and ofw firmware you can chose the hats pack for your console....
I did two consoles two days ago which were brand new in both of cases the screen was glitching with a single vertical white line on the right side. I didn't think much of it at first until another unit was doing the same thing in the same exact spot. It only happens during post boot when injecting Hekate. For the life of me, despite modding so many consoles I don't really pay much attention to the screen if this is a normal occurrence.
Hi guys.
I got NSW V1 from dead, but It got EMMC changed.
Have any way to recreate NAND from zero without the original nand?
I got NSW V1 from dead, but It got EMMC changed.
Have any way to recreate NAND from zero without the original nand?
You don't need anything from the 'dead' Switch but you need a backup from a working Switch :
https://gbatemp.net/threads/nand-rebuilding-for-no-backup-broken-emmc.593995/
I have got myself a Nintendo Switch lite with Picofly modchip and it's already jailbreak with atomsphere.
How do I turn on RCM again without RCM jig? I'm going to install Edizon and other hombrew on it.
How do I turn on RCM again without RCM jig? I'm going to install Edizon and other hombrew on it.
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